LE MANS 24 HOURS DRIVING GUIDE
by
Wolf Feather/Jamie Stafford
FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM
Version:   FINAL
Completed: November 7, 2001
Initial Version Completed August 19, 2001
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UPDATE
This version of the Driving Guide now lists ALL of the
available cars and how to acquire them, more specific details
for some courses, more tips for Surviving an Endurance Race,
two new sections (Time Trial Tips and Time Trial Goal Times),
even more detailed circuit information, and clarifications
throughout the guide.
This driving guide is even longer than before - now at FIFTY-
FIVE pages in the Macintosh version of Word 98, in single-
spaced Courier 12 font.  It may not necessarily be a great
idea to print out this guide in its entirety, unless you just
happen to be insanely rich.
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CONTENTS
Spacing and Length
Permissions
Introduction
Game Modes
Tires
General Tips
Time Trial Tips
Time Trial Goal Times
Surviving an Endurance Race
The Circuits
Completely Subjective Section
Details: Le Mans
Details: Bugatti
Details: Brno
Details: Donington National
Details: Donington Grand Prix
Details: Catalunya National
Details: Catalunya Grand Prix
Details: Suzuka East
Details: Suzuka West
Details: Suzuka Grand Prix
Details: Road Atlanta
Details: Road Atlanta National
Details: Reverse Courses
Unlocking Circuits (Spoilers!!!!!)
Unlocking Cars (Spoilers!!!!!)
Wish List
Contact
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SPACING AND LENGTH
For optimum readability, this driving guide should be
viewed/printed using a monowidth font, such as Courier.
Check for appropriate font setting by making sure the numbers
and letters below line up:
1234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZabcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz
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PERMISSIONS
This guide may ONLY be posted on FeatherGuides, GameFAQs.com,
PSXCodez.com, F1Gamers, Cheatcc.com, Absolute-
PlayStation.com, InsidePS2Games.com, RedCoupe, gamesover.com,
CheatPlanet.com, The Cheat Empire, a2zweblinks.com, Gameguru,
cheatingplanet.com, vgstrategies.com, hellzgate,
ps2fantasy.com, and neoseeker.com.
Permission is granted to download and print one copy of this
game guide for personal use.
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INTRODUCTION
I feel extremely fortunate to have been able to watch fifteen
of the 24 Hours of Daytona in February 2001 - the first and
only time popular NASCAR driver Dale Earnhardt was able to
compete in this classic event.  While I personally prefer
true road courses to stadium courses, I was still caught up
in the beauty and artistry of the grueling event.  It was
really quite special to see cars speeding along on the tight,
narrow pavement in the middle of the night, barely able to
see anything beyond the glow of the headlights.  I also
enjoyed the interviews with race teams and spectators alike
as they also fought to survive their grueling roles in the
race.  The changing weather conditions made this all even
more difficult for everyone involved.  It was my first chance
to watch an endurance race, and I instantly fell in love with
what was for me a brand new type of racing.
Le Mans 24 Hours brings this experience and excitement home.
The LONG endurance races - Petit Le Mans (10 hours) and Le
Mans (24 hours) - are extremely true to Nature in this
respect.  The tracking of the shadows as the sun crosses the
sky during the day, the tracking of the moon and stars as
they cross the night sky, the glare of headlights and
taillights, the sound of the engines piercing the air, the
drying of the circuit as a long, drenching rain gives way to
clear, sunny skies; many of these changes are not easily
noticed, as so much of your attention is focused on the
mechanics of the race itself, and on anticipating the next
corner.  The exquisite detail afforded to the realism is
breathtaking - IF you happen to notice it as you drive!!!
This guide comprises many elements, from listing the
unlockable courses and cars, to giving general tips, to
providing detailed circuit information.  As for this latter
point, some of the detail information - with appropriate
modifications - comes from the driving guide I wrote for F1
Championship Season 2000 (itself based on the guide I wrote
for F1 2000); this only applies to those circuits which are
common between these games.
For ALL circuits, where the corner/segment names are known, I
have translated these names to English and dropped any accent
markings, as standard text-only Internet documents are based
on the English-language ASCII character set.  Also, circuit
detail information is for dry-conditions daylight driving;
appropriate modifications are required for nighttime driving
and driving in other weather conditions.
I have also included a section on tires.  Much of the
information for this section comes from my GT3: Tires Guide,
with appropriate modifications.
All twelve possible courses (including the three reverse
courses) are listed here, with detailed driving instructions
for each (except the reverse courses); see Unlocking Circuits
(Spoilers!!!!!) below for details.
ALL of the advertised 70+ cars in the game are listed, based
on my own progress in the game.  See Unlocking Cars
(Spoilers!!!!!) below for details.
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GAME MODES
Le Mans 24 Hours features five game modes:
1.) Quick Race allows you to immediately get started racing.
Only four courses are initially available, however, more
courses (including the three reverse-direction courses, all
unlocked simultaneously) will be unlocked as you win races;
see Unlocking Circuits (Spoilers!!!!!) below for details.
However, when first playing Le Mans 24 Hours (or ANY racing
game with a Time Trial, Free Run, or similar mode), it would
be best to start with Time Trail instead to learn the many
courses.
2.) Championship presents you with increasingly-difficult
championship series; only the Rookie GT Championship is
initially available, but winning each series unlocks the next
series.  However, the circuits listed in the game manual for
each championship series are not necessarily the same
circuits actually used in the game.
3.) Le Mans mode allows you to race for varying amounts of
time in either Petit Le Mans (up to 10 hours at Road Atlanta)
or Le Mans 2000 (up to 24 hours).  Winning at each race
length (measured in time) unlocks more cars; see Unlocking
Cars (Spoilers!!!!!) below for details.
4.) Multiplayer allows for one-on-one competition.
5.) Time Trial is a great place to begin, allowing you to
learn the courses on your own pace, with no other vehicles on
the circuits with you to distract you.  Once you learn the
courses, this is where you can really work to improve your
lap times.  Beat the Goal Time for each course (normally two
to four seconds slower than the Record Time for each course)
to unlock a bonus car.  Only four courses are initially
available in Time Trial, but more will be opened as you win
races in Quick Race mode; see Unlocking Circuits
(Spoilers!!!!!) below for details.
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TIRES
A very important issue in tire selection actually involves
horsepower.  The chosen tires need to have some measure of
durability, or else you will be stopping in Pit Lane to
change tires extremely often.  In other words, don't allow
the car's horsepower to overdrive the tires' ability to
function properly.
In the event that the chosen tires wear out too much,
cornering at any respectable speed will be virtually
impossible, instead causing a nearly-uncontrollable slide
into a barrier or into another vehicle.  Strong acceleration
will likely cause the vehicle to spin.  A good driver will
not let this happen very often; an expert driver will NEVER
let this happen.  Always keep an eye on your tire indicators,
and plan ahead.  If possible, choose tires which will last as
least as long as your fuel load.
When the tire indicators are green, the tires provide you
with the best possible grip for that set of tires.  The
amount of time the tire indicators remain in the green color
range depends on your driving style, the amount of time off-
course (in the grass or sand) or banging the barriers (or
other cars), and the selection of tire compound.
As the tire indicators switch to yellow, you need to start
taking better care of your tires.  You will likely experience
slides when cornering.
One of the best ways to reduce the durability of the tires is
to corner at high speeds.  The manual for Gran Turismo 3
gives an excellent, detailed description of what occurs with
the tires when cornering.  In short, cornering at high speeds
causes a high percentage of the tire to be used for speed,
and a low percentage to be used for the actual cornering.  To
combat this and thus extend the durability of the tires, try
to brake in a STRAIGHT line before reaching a turn, thus
reducing overall speed, resulting in a lower percentage of
the tires to be used for speed and a greater percentage
instead used for cornering.
Note that if the percentage of the tires used for speed is
too high compared to the percentage used for cornering, the
car will slide and/or spin.
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GENERAL TIPS
For those not accustomed to racing games, Time Trial mode is
by far the best place to start.  This will allow you to try
out cars in all three race categories, and also to learn the
many courses without the distraction of other cars on the
circuit with you; note that only four courses are initially
available in Time Trial mode until other tracks are opened in
Quick Race mode.  Only really adept racing gamers (especially
those who mostly play simulations) will be able to jump into
a race on an unknown/unseen course and still perform fairly
well.
For races with a standing start, DO NOT hold down the
accelerator while you wait for the lights to change to green;
this will not produce any benefits in Le Mans 24 Hours, and
will actually put you far behind everyone else.  Instead,
keep off the accelerator, and try to time its application
with the exact millisecond the lights turn green.  This will
reduce wheelspin due to excessive engine revs, thus applying
all available power to the tires.  On some circuits, if you
use this strategy from a starting position at the very back
of the grid, you can pass up to half of your competitors
before reaching the first corner!!!
To the extent possible, keep to the approved racing surfaces
(pavement, concrete, rumble strips).  Grass will slow you
down greatly, and sand traps (a.k.a. 'kitty litter') will
essentially bring you to an immediate halt.
To pass, use the draft; this is especially effective in
prototype cars.  Or, if you feel a bit rowdy, ram or
sideswipe the car in front of you (especially on or just
before corner entry) to knock it out of your way and send it
careening off-course.  If you ram a car hard enough from
behind, it is possible to send the other vehicle flipping
end-over-end or into a continuous-roll accident; a 'good'
place to do this is coming into the final chicane at Road
Atlanta (full circuit).
If you do not choose to qualify, you will automatically start
in last place; therefore, you have nothing to lose and A LOT
to gain by qualifying.  If you can qualify on Pole, that can
mean up to twenty-three FEWER passes you will need to make as
a race progresses.  This may not be very significant in
shorter races, but in the longer (Le Mans and Petit Le Mans)
races, this could become a significant factor, especially in
relation to Pit strategy.
If you are in first place and begin lapping other cars, those
cars one or more laps behind you will have blue indicators on
the track map.
Fortunately, should you run out of fuel, your race does not
automatically come to an end like in some other racing games.
Instead, you will simply start slowing, and will not be able
to accelerate unless you can convince gravity to help you -
IF you are fortunate enough to be heading downhill.
Therefore, always keep an eye on your fuel gauge and be
constantly mindful of the on-screen information displays at
the top-center of the screen.
In a Championship series, if you can win all the initial
races, you may be able to win the series overall even if you
decide not to participate in one of the final races of the
series; similarly, you may be able to skip a race at a
circuit you do not particularly like (or, depending on your
point of view, which does not particularly like you) and
still be able to win the overall series if you can win at
most or all of the remaining circuits.  Unfortunately, Le
Mans 24 Hours does not provide a Forfeit (or similar) option,
so you are required to actually go out to the track; here,
press Start, select Quit, and confirm.
If your goal is to unlock every possible car in the game,
keep checking back to Progress (first select Options at the
Main Menu).  Use the left and right directional buttons to
page through the various modes.  Locked cars are silhouetted,
while unlocked cars are shown in full color.  Note that not
all game modes provide the chance to unlock cars.
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TIME TRIAL TIPS
In Time Trial mode, you will always begin from a standing
start.  This means that it will not be possible to best the
Goal Time on the initial lap.  However, take this opportunity
to practice a standing start with no other vehicles on the
starting grid to distract you.  Also, on this initial lap,
brake VERY early and take corners VERY slowly to save the
tires (see the next tip below); come up to full racing speed
only in the final corner(s) of the circuit.
While there are no tire wear indicators on the screen when in
Time Trial mode, tire wear does indeed occur; this is
especially noticeable if using soft tires (you should be
using soft tires anyhow, as they provide the best traction,
which you will definitely need to better the Goal Times).
Once you have completed about six to eight laps, the tires
will no longer be of benefit to you, and will likely be a
detriment to you; since any trip to Pit Lane is drive-through
only with no servicing, you will be forced to quit Time Trial
mode and return to gain fresh tires.
The Goal Time for most circuits is set so low that ANY off-
course excursion will almost automatically put you out of
contention for besting the Goal Time in that lap.  In this
case, get back on the pavement as quickly as possible, and
drive slowly (like on the first lap) to save the tires,
coming up to full racing speed only at the final corner(s) of
the circuit in anticipation of your next 'hot lap.'
For all attempts at besting the Goal Time for a course, make
sure to use as little fuel as the CPU will allow; this will
reduce the weight of the fuel, thereby reducing the weight of
the car and improving handling, accelerating, and braking.
If you think fuel weight is not an issue, consider this:  One
gallon of water equals approximately eight poundsŠ and one
gallon of fuel will NOT get you very far, especially not at
Le Mans!!!!!
You will likely need to experiment with the car settings to
see which gives you the best chance at besting the Goal Time
for each circuit.  I find that setting the Gear Box to
Acceleration, the Engine to Sprint, and Downforce to High is
a good starting set-up from which to work; be sure to adjust
for personal preference and driving style.
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TIME TRIAL GOAL TIMES
In Time Trial mode, besting the posted Goal Times earns you a
new car, except at the three reverse courses.  Here are the
Goal Times (including listed Goal Times for the reverse
courses), listed here for convenience:
Le Mans                             3:34.000
Bugatti                             1:34.000
Brno                                1:45.000
Donington National                  1:00.000
Donington Grand Prix                1:21.000
Catalunya National                  1:01.000
Catalunya Grand Prix                1:34.000
Suzuka East                         0:40.000
Suzuka West                         1:01.000
Suzuka Grand Prix                   1:07.000
Road Atlanta National               0:46.000
Road Atlanta                        1:09.000
Reverse Brno                        1:48.000
Reverse Donington National          1:02.000
Reverse Donington Grand Prix        1:23.000
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SURVIVING AN ENDURANCE RACE
While most of the races in Le Mans 24 Hours are relatively
short by racing standards, some races are extremely long
(especially the full Le Mans or Petit Le Mans races, at
twenty-four and ten hours, respectively).  Even the 'short'
100-minute Petit Le Mans race is relatively survivable.
However, the longer races require even more focus and
concentration.  Fatigue really begins to set in, especially
for those not habituated to playing full-length races in non-
endurance racing games such as F1 2001.  While Le Mans 24
Hours allows for progress in longer races to be saved when in
Pit Lane, you really lose the 'flow' of a given race if you
save your progress and shut off the console after one stint
in the car, making such a start-and-stop 'method' of racing
quite a fragmented, arguably 'postmodern' method of racing.
For those who prefer to race for multiple stints at a time,
here are some tips to help you keep your concentration and
focus:
1.) Make sure you are well-rested and have plenty of time for
driving multiple consecutive stints.  To give you a
benchmark, I average about forty-five minutes per stint at Le
Mans (240 minutes) using full fuel and hard tires in a Closed
Prototype vehicle.  For the Petit Le Mans, I generally race a
Closed Prototype car with fifty-percent fuel and soft tires,
for thirty to forty minutes per stint.
2.) Make sure you are as comfortable as possible.  Real-world
race drivers often have specifically-molded seat cushions to
help in this endeavor.  While such specialized equipment is
far too expensive to be used when playing console racing
games, the concept is the same:  Make sure you are in a
comfortable chair, with appropriate cushions if necessary.
If you like to have a footrest, make sure it is in place
before beginning a race.
3.) While Le Mans 24 Hours does include music, it can quite
easily become too repetitive to help you keep your
concentration.  If you have a stereo or radio separate from
the sound system of your console and television, put on other
music, perhaps a favorite CD (Lords of Acid, anyone???????).
4.) Adjust for real-world lighting before beginning a race.
This is especially important for those - like myself - who
have the console and television placed directly in front of a
window due to the configuration of a small apartment or dorm
room.  Adjust the blinds or curtains to your liking so that
any light coming in will not bother your eyes, especially
when racing through the nighttime portion of races.  Also,
turn off or move lights whose shine reflects off the
television screen.
5.) Have a drink handy.  To be more realistic in relation to
actual race drivers, only make use of the drink while in Pit
Lane, thus simulating a driver receiving a small water bottle
while the team handles car servicing.  Or, simply have the
drink next to you on a table so that you can quickly reach it
for a quick sip down a straightaway; this would more or less
simulate the in-helmet drink system used by some real-world
race-drivers.  (Of course, you could always 'cheat' and
simply pause the game whenever you need a quick drink.)  Note
that drinks with high caffeine content (such as Jolt, sold in
select markets in the States) may not be a good choice; if
you run out of the drink well before the end of a stint, or
long before you finish your planned multiple stints, you
could experience a rather severe caffeine crash, which will
adversely affect your driving performance and your
concentration.
6.) Real-world drivers generally do not get a chance to eat
during the race, except perhaps while the car is in Pit Lane
for fuels and tires.  A small plate or bowl of small snack
foods might be useful.  Small candies, crackers, cheeses,
etc., may be good choices.  If you are on a diet, first
consult with your doctor or nutritionist for some good snack
food possibilities.
7.) If you often download images, sounds, movies, etc., from
the Internet and have a computer close to the console, set
the computer to download a massive number of files before
starting the game.  Occasionally (preferably when alone on a
long straightaway), glance over at the computer to check on
the progress of the download.  This will subconsciously keep
your mind occupied on more than simply racing, thus forcing
yourself to remain focused via extra effort.  (And if you
want to download a flood of Sailor Moon images from Usenet,
this will save time, as you are obviously not using the
computer personally while you race!!!)
8.) Avoid racing at times of the day (or night) when your
body naturally tends to shut down.  This applies to life in
general, including choosing times between three-hour grad
classes!!!!!
9.) Try to internalize the basics of racing before beginning
an endurance race.  If you can instinctively handle a J-turn,
for example, the mechanics of safely navigating the corner
will require less concentration.  Perhaps the best possible
means to learn the basics of racing with 'hands-on'
experience is to complete ALL the license tests of any game
in the Gran Turismo series; I particularly suggest the
license tests in Gran Turismo 2.
10.) Simulate an actual Le Mans or Petit Le Mans race,
without pausing or saving the game to continue later.  Gather
together several friends, and take turns doing the driving,
changing drivers only at the Pit Stops as in an actual
endurance race.  Of course, this will give you an advantage
over real-world endurance race drivers:  They do not
generally get to have good (or boring) conversations with
friends while driving.
11.) If your car is lightning-fast compared to the other
vehicles in the race, then after the first or second stint,
always use 50% fuel.  This should also allow you to use soft
tires (if in dry conditions), as soft tires will generally
begin to really wear out after about half of a fuel tank has
been depleted (even faster if you have had many off-course
excursions).  This method will obviously have you sitting in
Pit Lane more often, but that will give you more short breaks
to catch your breath and let your adrenaline simmer for a
moment.
12.) If playing with randomized weather, always be prepared
to stop in Pit Lane to change tires.  I have been able to run
a number of laps successfully at Le Mans with soft tires when
I should have been using intermediate tires, but my lap times
were slower than if I had been using intermediate tires.
Also, note that it takes approximately thirty minutes for the
pavement to dry off after a long, hard, soaking rain, so this
may well play into your choice of tires in a long endurance
race.
13.) EVERY time you come to Pit Lane, SAVE YOUR PROGRESS!!!!!
You never know when some fool will drive into a nearby
telephone pole and cut off your electricity.
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THE CIRCUITS
Here are the circuits available in Le Mans 24 Hours, along
with brief descriptions:
Le Mans                    The longest circuit of the game,
Le Mans is quite challenging,
especially when approaching the
Pits and Front Straightaway. Keep
an eye on the tire and fuel
indicators; if you run out of fuel
or sufficient traction on the
back side of the circuit, you may
as well just quit the race.
Bugatti                    This is the permanent section of
the Le Mans circuit.  High speeds
are not really effective here with
all the technical corners.
Brno                       If not for the many hills, this
would be a really great circuit.
As it is, great speeds can be
achieved here, especially with a
low-downforce set-up, but
cornering can be somewhat
difficult.  This circuit would be
EXCEPTIONALLY FUN with a
motorcycle!!!!!
Donington National         Good speeds can be achieved at
Donington, but there are several
tight corners which will really
challenge low-downforce cars.
Donington Grand Prix       Identical to Donington National,
with the addition of a nasty
chicane and two tight hairpins.
Catalunya National         A quick course, but the first turn
(a hairpin) is sharp.
Catalunya Grand Prix       An excellent circuit with high
speeds possible.  This circuit
will be quite familiar to those
who have played F1-based games
such as F1 Championship Season
2000.
Suzuka East                The Suzuka East circuit includes
the famous figure-eight crossover.
Good use of the draft can be very
beneficial here.
Suzuka West                The S-curves can be quite
dangerous, but they do provide
excellent passing opportunities if
you can brake deeper than the cars
in front of you and/or have
superior acceleration for corner
exits.
Suzuka Grand Prix          This circuit will also be quite
familiar to those who have played
F1-based and motorcycle-based
games.  This is the most famous
circuit in Japan, and perhaps in
all of Asia.
Road Atlanta National      This course provides steep
elevation changes, tempering
significant straightaways with
blind corners.
Road Atlanta               This course provides steep
elevation changes, tempering
significant straightaways with
blind corners.  This course has
been offered in other racing
games, so some players may
already be rather familiar with
the Road Atlanta circuit.
There are also three official reverse courses: Reverse Brno,
Reverse Donington National, and Reverse Donington Grand Prix.
Of course, you can drive in reverse on any course at any
time, but this is certainly NOT recommended, especially
during a race!!!!!
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COMPLETELY SUBJECTIVE SECTION
This will likely be utterly useless information for some
(unless these items miraculously happen to become answers on
Jeopardy!), so this section should be taken with several
grains of salt and a large raw salmon.
My Favorite Courses:
Catalunya Grand Prix
Le Mans
Road Atlanta (full circuit)
Suzuka Grand Prix
My Least Favorite Courses:
Catalunya National
Road Atlanta National
Suzuka East
Suzuka West
My Favorite Corners:
Bugatti: Museum Curve
Catalunya Grand Prix: Seat
Le Mans: Mulsanne and Porsche Curve
Road Atlanta: Turn 8 (the second-nastiest corner) and Turn
13 (the nastiest corner, passing underneath Suzuka
Bridge)
Road Atlanta National: Turn 12 (the nastiest corner,
passing underneath Suzuka Bridge)
Suzuka Grand Prix: Degner
Suzuka West: Degner
My Least Favorite Corners:
Bugatti: Dunlop Chicane
Catalunya Grand Prix: Banc Sabadeau
Catalunya National: Banc Sabadeau
Donington Grand Prix: Turns 9-10
Donington National: Turns 9-10
Le Mans: Dunlop Chicane, White House
Suzuka Grand Prix: Chicane
My Favorite Driving Conditions:
Broad daylight, dry weather conditions
Complete darkness, clear sky, with few trees or other
obstacles to block the view of the stars and moon
Sunset with clear skies (especially in the Petit Le Mans
at Road Atlanta)
My Least Favorite Driving Conditions:
Hour after hour after hour after hour of non-stop
incessant neverending water droplets dripping
continuously from the dark clouds above
====================================
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DETAILS: LE MANS
This is the longest circuit of the gameŠ and quite likely the
reason players buy or rent this game!!!  It is IMPERATIVE to
learn this circuit flawlessly during daylight conditions, as
visibility is unbelievably poor at night and in wet-weather
conditions (although better than in the old Test Drive: Le
Mans).  The trick to successfully completing Time Trial here
(and thus unlocking a car) is to find the best possible
combination of small car size with strong acceleration and
high top-end speed; however, you must begin Time Trial with
at least 40% fuel, so you will certainly need to make a
number of laps to reduce your fuel load - along with
absolutely BETTER-THAN-FLAWLESS DRIVING - to even have a HOPE
of besting the Goal Time of 3:34.000.
SPECIAL NOTE 1: After driving all night long (especially
in the full 24-hour race), the transition to daylight
driving (especially under clear skies) can result in poor
visibility of cars far ahead of you until your eyes
adjust.  Be wary of your closing rate on slower, 'unseen'
cars far ahead, as you can suddenly find your front bumper
banging the rear end of another vehicle.
SPECIAL NOTE 2: Lights are used for nighttime driving and
other poor visibility conditions (primarily constant
rain).  While the lights are great in poor visibility
conditions, do not allow yourself to become too reliant
upon them.  Once clear visibility returns, the lights are
turned off (approximately 6:30AM in the full 24-hour
race).
Turn 1 (Dunlop Curve): This is a rather nice right-hand fade
which can be taken flat-out.  However, it may be a good idea
to begin braking for Dunlop Chicane when exiting Dunlop
Curve.  An elevation change begins here.
Turns 2-4 (Dunlop Chicane): Given the continual upward slope
through Dunlop Chicane, it is extremely easy to slip off the
pavement on either side of the circuitŠ and both sides are
filled with plenty of kitty litter.  Braking well before
entering the Dunlop Chicane is of UTMOST importance as the
corners of the chicane are rather tight.  At the beginning of
a race, all the traffic can make this segment even more
treacherous than it would be normally.
Straightaway: The significant hill crests as you pass
underneath the big Dunlop tire.
Turns 5-6 (Red Mound S): This left-right chicane begins just
after passing the Ferris Wheel on the left side of the
course, and is a good reference point to use in picking your
braking zone; note that the Bugatti circuit turns to the
right here.  The barriers are rather close to the pavement on
both sides through the chicane, so any off-pavement
excursions will result in sliding along the rails; this is
especially important in case you carry too much speed through
this chicane.
Turns 7-9 (Red Mound Curve): This is a set of three right-
hand semi-corners which can usually be taken flat-out, unless
you find yourself encumbered by traffic.  However, keep a
tight line to the apex of each of the three semi-corners, or
you may find yourself with a few wheels in the sand and grass
on the outside of the course.  The outside of the final
corner is actually paved (where the Le Mans circuit joins
public roads come together), so this can be used as a good
swing-out area if necessary, and can also be used to pass a
small group of cars on the inside of the corner; beware the
outside barrier here as you will be likely be carrying A LOT
of speed.
Straightaway (Hunaudieres Straight - Part I): This is the
longest straightaway of the circuit, and very good top-end
speeds can be achieved here, especially if you were able to
blast your way through Red Mound Curve without even tapping
the brakes.  However, there is no room for error if you get
involved in a three-abreast situation, as the barriers come
almost directly up to the pavement.  During the day, look for
the distance-to-corner markers or else you will miss Motorola
Chicane (flashing red lights alert you to the chicane at
night and in poor-visibility conditions).
Turns 10-12 (Motorola Chicane): This is the same chicane
format as the Dunlop Chicane (right-left-right), but wider
and without the hill.  Beware the barriers.  In poor-
visibility conditions, the first corner of the chicane is
easily identifiable by the red lights; during the day,
however, the chicane is very difficult to see from a
distance, so be sure to look for the distance-to-corner
markers.
Straightaway (Hunaudieres Straight - Part II): Very good top-
end speeds can be achieved here.  However, there is no room
for error if you get involved in a three-abreast situation,
as the barriers come almost directly up to the pavement.
During the day, look for the distance-to-corner markers or
else you will miss Michelin Chicane (flashing red lights
alert you to the chicane at night).
Turns 13-15 (Michelin Chicane): This is exactly like the
Motorola Chicane, but is a left-right-left combination with a
tighter initial turn.  In poor-visibility conditions, the
first corner of the chicane is easily identifiable by the red
lights; during the day, however, the chicane is very
difficult to see from a distance, so be sure to look for the
distance-to-corner markers.
Straightaway (Hunaudieres Straight - Part III): Yet another
long straightaway, but with a small fade to the right almost
one-third of the way along its length.  After clearing the
small rise (similar to a bridge over a small country stream,
about two-thirds of the way along the straightaway), look for
the distance-to-corner markers for Mulsanne Curve.
Mulsanne: If you can carry enough speed and have sufficient
tire grip, you can essentially treat both Mulsanne Hump and
Mulsanne Curve as one long double-apex corner by riding up on
the inside rumble strip of Mulsanne Curve.  Mulsanne Hump and
Mulsanne Curve together essentially form a 135-degree
(double-apex) megacorner.  It is very easy to go too wide
exiting this megacorner, and CPU-controlled cars often will
find themselves in the sand trap, so keep watch for such
activity as you round Mulsanne Curve.
Turn 16 (Mulsanne Hump): The distance-to-corner markers
actually are for the following right-hand turn, but no one
can afford to miss Mulsanne Hump, whose apex is almost
exactly in line with the 100m marker and bounded on the
left by a nasty barrier.
Turn 17 (Mulsanne Curve): The distance-to-corner markers
are actually for THIS corner.  This is a ninety-degree
corner requiring moderate braking and a solid, clean
racing line to keep out of the sand trap.
Straightaway: This straightaway has three fades to the right
along its length.  At the apex of the third fade, begin
braking for the Indianapolis Curve.
Turn 18 (Indianapolis Curve): This left-hand ninety-degree
corner can easily be missed, so use plenty of braking
beginning at the apex of the third fade along the previous
straightaway.  Do not cut this corner too sharp or you will
likely bang the barrier on the inside of the turn.
Turn 19 (Arnage Curve): After a very brief straightaway, this
is a right-hand right-angle corner.  The trick here is to NOT
come up to full speed following the Indianapolis Curve, thus
saving your brakes a little (which is extremely importance in
endurance races).  Do not cut this corner too sharp or you
will likely bang the barrier on the inside of the turn.  If
you go wide, say 'Bonjour' (daytime) or 'Bonsoir'
(evening/nighttime) to the outside barrier.  Likewise, if you
carry too much speed over the inside rumble strip,
countersteer immediately to avoid a spin (and that still may
not help).
Straightaway: This 'straightaway' has four fades (left-right-
left-right).  After the fourth fade, get ready for the fast-
approaching Porsche Curve.
'Chicane:' This next segment essentially forms an extra-wide
right-left-left-right ('bus stop') chicane as it leaves the
public roads.  Extreme care is required here, as the pavement
is extreme narrow.
Turn 20 (Porsche Curve): Light braking will likely be
needed here, although experts can probably blast through
here at top speed if not encumbered by traffic.  An
uphill rise begins here.
Turn 21: The rise crests here as the course turns to the
left.
Turns 22-23: The course elevation drops at Turn 22 as the
circuit turns to the left, making this corner more
challenging than it would at first appear.  Turn 23
follows immediately, turning to the right.
Turns 24-27 (Prairie): There are four significant semi-
corners (right-left-right-left) here.  Top speed can be
carried all the way through Prairie, but only with a flawless
racing line, else you risk dropping a wheel in the grass and
slowing yourself down.  On exiting Turn 27, the single yellow
line marking the Pit Entry begins on the right.
Turns 28-31 (White House): These tight left-right-left-right
S-curves are the finale of a rather lengthy lap of the Le
Mans circuit.  The pavement here is extremely narrow, making
safe passing impossible; if any passing is to be done here,
it is only by ramming another car off the pavement and into
the kitty litter.  The entire area is surrounded by massive
sand traps, so if you slip off the pavement, you will be
slowed almost to a snail's crawl, losing valuable time and
allowing those behind you to pass with the greatest of ease.
A VERY brief straightaway separates the first left-right
combination from the second.  Note that to keep your time in
this section to a minimum, you will need to make use of the
rumble strips on the inside of each corner; however, if you
come through ANY corner of White House carrying too much
speed (especially in wet racing conditions), the car will
bounce severely and perhaps spin or slide out into the kitty
litter.
====================================
DETAILS: BUGATTI
This is the permanent section of the Le Mans circuit.
Bugatti is a rather technical circuit, so top-end speed is
generally not the best way to set up a car here.  Those
familiar with the Nevers Magny-Cours F1 circuit will
certainly appreciate its similarity to the four semi-parallel
straightaways on the first half of the Bugatti circuit.
Turn 1 (Dunlop Curve): This is a rather nice right-hand fade
which can be taken flat-out.  However, it may be a good idea
to begin braking for Dunlop Chicane when exiting Dunlop
Curve.  An elevation change begins here.
Turns 2-4 (Dunlop Chicane): Given the continual upward slope
through Dunlop Chicane, it is extremely easy to slip off the
pavement on either side of the circuitŠ and both sides are
filled with plenty of kitty litter.  Braking well before
entering the Dunlop Chicane is of UTMOST importance as the
corners of the chicane are rather tight.  At the beginning of
a race, all the traffic can make this segment even more
treacherous than it would be normally.
Semi-parallel Straightaways: These four semi-parallel
straightaways can produce an unexpected aural effect.  Once
traffic stretches out all around the circuit, whenever you
are on the middle straightaways, you will almost certainly
hear cars speeding past you on the straightaways to either
side of you.
Straightaway: The significant hill crests as you pass
underneath the big Dunlop tire.
Turn 5 (Chapel): This is a rather tight right-hand hairpin
which will require moderate breaking on entrance.  Chapel
begins immediately after passing the tall Ferris Wheel on
the left.
Turn 6 (Museum Curve): This is a wide left-hand hairpin
with an extensive sand trap to the outside of the
pavement.  Of the three consecutive hairpins, this is by
far the easiest to handle, allowing for most cars to still
carry some considerable speed through the hairpin, but
braking is still required before entry.
Turn 7 (Green Garage): Yet another tight right-hand
hairpin requiring harsh braking.  If you miss your braking
zone, you will find yourself beached in the kitty litter
to the outside of the hairpin.
Turns 8-9 (Ox Way S): Hard braking is required here after the
fourth of the semi-parallel straightaways.   Beware the sand
traps to the outside of each corner, and make sure not to
overcompensate and roll through the grass on the inside of
the corners.  Turn 8 begins immediately after passing
underneath the Bridgestone bridge.
Turns 10-11 (Blues S): Brake early or Turn 10 will have you
either out in the kitty litter or spinning around in the
middle of the pavement.  The right-handed Turn 10 is rather
straightforward.  However, there are then TWO pieces of
pavement turning to the left.  The official Turn 11 is the
SECOND pavement, so do not turn too soon.
Turns 12-13 (Connection): Pit Entry is to the right
immediately before entering Connection, so beware of slower
cars here.  The Connection complex is extremely complex, as
the final chicanes and the Pit Entry of the Le Mans course
rejoin the Bugatti course here.  Just make two right-hand,
ninety-degree turns at a moderate pace (likely making good
use of the rumble strips) and you will soon find yourself
safely back on the Pit Straight.  The pavement here is
extremely narrow, making safe passing impossible; if any
passing is to be done here, it is only by ramming another car
off the pavement and into the kitty litter.
====================================
DETAILS: BRNO
Located in the Czech Republic, this is another rather
technical circuit, with massive sand traps on the outside of
every corner, and sand traps on the inside of many corners as
well.  A reverse race configuration is also available at Brno
(unlocked simultaneously with Reverse Donington National and
Reverse Donington Grand Prix).  Fortunately, this is a rather
wide circuit, so racing three-abreast is easily done without
anyone endangering the other cars involved; four-wide racing,
however, is certainly NOT recommended at Brno, especially
when cornering!!!!!
Pit Straight: The Pit Lane barrier is set just far enough
away from the official course (marked by the white line on
the right side) that an unofficial paved lane is created.
You can make use of this unofficial lane to pass several cars
at once, especially on a standing start.  However, beware of
any cars exiting Pit Lane.
Turn 1: This is a relatively-fast right-hand J-turn requiring
light to moderate braking on entry.  For good lap times, a
minimum speed of 100MPH/160KPH is required through Turn 1,
but I have been able to successfully hold speeds over 110MPH
before oversteering begins to take effect.  If you can
successfully hold such speeds here, Turn 1 is a great place
to pass other cars.  Do not drift off-course on the left, or
you will be beached in the sand.  A gentle fade to the left
occurs on corner exit.
Turn 2: This left-hand corner will require moderate braking
on entry to keep out of the sand.  Again, good speed can be
held through this corner, allowing you to pass one or two
cars.
Turn 3: After a brief straightaway, this right-hand corner
will require light braking to stay out of the sand.
Straightaway: The circuit begins its downhill run here.
Turn 4: Continuing downhill, this right-hand J-turn requires
moderate braking as the car lightens.
Turn 5: A right-hand corner requiring light braking as the
course continues downhill.
Turn 6: After a brief straightaway, the course continues
downhill through this left-hand corner, which requires light
braking.  Do not go wide on exit or you will be caught out in
the kitty litter.
Turn 7: Still continuing downhill, the course turns left
here, requiring light braking.  If you go wide, you will be
out in the sand.
Turn 8: This right-hand J-turn requires moderate braking to
keep from sliding out into the sand on the outside of the
corner.  The inside of the corner also has a sand trap, so do
not cut this corner too short if you need to pass other cars
here.
Turn 9: After a relatively long straightaway, the course has
a right-hand downhill J-turn here requiring moderate braking.
Drift left on exit, but do not go too wide or you will be
beached in the sand.
Turn 10: The course finally 'bottoms out' and begins a gentle
uphill climb at the entrance of this left-hand corner.  Light
braking is required here to keep from running out into the
sand.
Turn 11: Almost immediately following Turn 10, this right-
hand corner continues the uphill climb.  Moderate braking is
necessary here.
Turn 12: Still continuing uphill, use moderate braking for
this left-hand corner to keep out of the sand.
Turn 13: The hill crests on entry to Turn 13.  Use light or
moderate braking here to stay out of the kitty litter.  The
single white line indicating Pit Entry begins just after the
apex of Turn 13, so be mindful of cars slowing for Pit Entry.
====================================
DETAILS: DONINGTON NATIONAL
This popular British venue is the host of many events, and
has been included in other racing games.  The outside of
almost every corner has a very small strip of grass between
the pavement and the sand trap.  The only difference from the
Donington Grand Prix course is that the two straightaways
behind the Paddock Suite are bypassed.
Turn 1: This right-hand J-turn requires moderate braking, and
plenty of patience at the start of a race as traffic really
jams up here.
Turn 2: This is a long, gentle right-hand semi-corner,
sloping downhill along its entire length.
Turn 3: Continuing downhill, this left-hand corner will only
require light braking, if the brakes are needed at all.  Due
to the downhill slope, it may be difficult to see the apex of
the corner as you approach.
Turn 4: Immediately after Turn 3, the course turns uphill to
the right here, with light or moderate braking required.
Turn 5: After passing underneath the pedestrian bridge, the
course turns to the left here.  No braking is required.
Turn 6: This is really just a left-hand fade.
Turn 7: Moderate braking is necessary as the course continues
uphill through this right-hand turn.  The barrier on the left
comes rather close to the pavement, so there is not much
grass and sand to stop you if you miss your braking zone.
Turn 8: This lengthy, sweeping right-hand J-turn will require
light braking to keep out of the grass and sand as the course
continues slowly uphill.  This corner opens out onto the
longest straightaway at Donington.
Turns 9-10: Shortly after passing underneath the big Dunlop
tire, begin braking for the chicane.  This is a tight right-
left combination.  Barriers to the inside AND outside of Turn
9 prevent any shortcutting.
====================================
DETAILS: DONINGTON GRAND PRIX
This popular British venue is the host of many events, and
has been included in other games.  The outside of almost
every corner has a very small strip of grass between the
pavement and the sand trap.
Turn 1: This right-hand J-turn requires moderate braking, and
plenty of patience at the start of a race as traffic really
jams up here.
Turn 2: This is a long, gentle right-hand semi-corner,
sloping downhill along its entire length.
Turn 3: Continuing downhill, this left-hand corner will only
require light braking, if the brakes are needed at all.  Due
to the downhill slope, it may be difficult to see the apex of
the corner as you approach.
Turn 4: Immediately after Turn 3, the course turns uphill to
the right here, with light or moderate braking required.
Turn 5: After passing underneath the pedestrian bridge, the
course turns to the left here.  No braking is required.
Turn 6: This is really just a left-hand fade.
Turn 7: Moderate braking is necessary as the course continues
uphill through this right-hand turn.  The barrier on the left