Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero Walkthrough :
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Walkthrough - FAQ
TOKYO EXTREME RACER ZERO: GETTING STARTED GUIDE By Wolf Feather/Jamie Stafford FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM Initial Version Completed: December 15, 2002 Version 2.0 Completed: December 25, 2002 ==================================== ==================================== ==================================== CONTENTS Spacing and Length Permissions Introduction The Initial Car Rivals Courses BOLO General Tips Input from Others Drivetrains Braking Cornering Tuning Diagrams Contact ==================================== ==================================== ==================================== SPACING AND LENGTH For optimum readability, this driving guide should be viewed/printed using a monowidth font, such as Courier. Check for appropriate font setting by making sure the numbers and letters below line up: 1234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012 ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZabcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz This guide is approximately 31 pages long in the Macintosh version of Microsoft Word 98 using single-spaced Courier 12 font. ==================================== PERMISSIONS This guide may ONLY be posted on FeatherGuides, GameFAQs.com, PSXCodez.com, Cheatcc.com, Absolute-PlayStation.com, gamesover.com, InsidePS2Games.com, RedCoupe, CheatPlanet.com, The Cheat Empire, a2zweblinks.com, Gameguru, Games Domain, GameReactors.com, cheatingplanet.com, vgstrategies.com, CheatHeaven, IGN, ps2fantasy.com, and RobsGaming.com, neoseeker.com. Permission is granted to download and print one copy for personal use. ==================================== ==================================== ==================================== INTRODUCTION Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero is an intriguing game - similar to the PlayStation game Tokyo Highway Battle, but far more developed and with much more highway to explore. Also, the CPU-controlled Rivals are far more challenging and varied, employing a wider array of tactics in their own attempts to win each battle. One of the most interesting aspects of the game (to me) is that it shows the complexity of the highway system of a major urban area. The initial course is especially intriguing in this respect, and it is rather interesting to compare the game version of the highway to a map of Tokyo. Something that may take many players by surprise is that the Japanese road and highway system is designed to drive on the left-hand side of the roadway/highway. In Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero, this never comes directly into play. And, only in rather rare cases can the player even SEE the opposite direction of the highways (which amazingly NEVER has any traffic). This guide is intended to help those just beginning with Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero. Granted, I wrote a guide on the game in Fall 2001 (Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero: Game Guide), but this guide will also include information related to the questions I have received most often in e-mails from readers of my Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero: Game Guide. Some information in this guide comes from my Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero: Game Guide and from my General Racing/Driving Guide, both available at GameFAQs (http://www.GameFAQs.com/). ==================================== ==================================== ==================================== THE INITIAL CAR After enjoying the opening movie of the game, players are forced to purchase a car. The initial car choice is important, as it should be a vehicle with which a player will feel very comfortable immediately. Specifically, the player should choose a car type with which she or he is already familiar from other driving games. In my case, I am rather adept with 4WD vehicles in the Gran Turismo series, so my first cars were 4WD vehicles (TYPE-CE9A and TYPE-CP9A6M). Car choice in a game like this flows into two schools of thought. Since the player begins the game with a given amount of cash ($15,000), the player can either: A.) buy the most expensive car the player can afford, or B.) buy a less expensive car and start making upgrades to the car immediately. This choice is really based upon personal preference. Fortunately, most Class A cars available at the start of the game can easily defeat the first 5-10 Rivals the player encounters, so since initial income flow is practically 'guaranteed,' it really does make sense to start with the most expensive Class A car that a player can afford (the TYPE-CE9A, costing $14,750 and meaning that the player will not be able to buy any upgraded parts); this will be a powerful car initially, and the player will still attain money to make some nice upgrades to the vehicle. If a player follows the second school of thought concerning initial car selection, the first parts the player should buy are tires. The player should ALWAYS buy the best possible tires affordable at a given time. Better tires mean more traction, which means both less wheel spin (resulting in better acceleration) and better cornering at high speeds. Even if racing a higher-power car, if a player' car has better tires, the player can take advantage of corners to catch up and pass the Rival. As the player progresses through the game, if new sets of tires are made available (by beating certain Rivals), it is important to buy them immediately!!! Once the player has bought a car and made any initial upgrades in the Parts Shop, the player should go to the Settings screen and make any adjustments necessary, then leave Quest mode (saving game progress) and go to Free Run. Here, the player should learn the initial course in both directions, so that there will not be any surprises upon return to Quest mode to begin challenging other drivers. Using Free Run, the player will also be able to discern if the Settings need to be adjusted, and the player may also begin to notice which new parts to buy next once enough money has been acquired to do so. However, Free Run does not include ANY traffic on the highway, so if the player needs to make adjustments to the car, it is important to consider how the changes will affect car handling when weaving in and out of traffic. When ready, the player should then go to Time Attack and complete a few rounds there on each course. While the player may not necessarily be driving at top speed in Free Run, this WILL occur in Time Attack - after all, that IS the point of Time Attack. This will allow the player to set a few records to start with, and will also give an idea of how the car handles at top speed. it is especially important to note how to best use the car in cornering. If the player wants to tune the car (especially gear ratios, if applicable), this is perhaps the best place to do it. Now the player is ready to go back to Quest mode and take on a few Rivals!!! In Quest mode, the player can return to the Garage when necessary to add parts and change settings. Also, periodically (perhaps every 20-30 minutes), the player should save game progress (System menu), just in case the electricity goes out, little siblings squirt the console with a water gun, etc. ==================================== RIVALS The premise of Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero is rather simple: The player must locate, challenge, and defeat all illegal highway racers in Tokyo. Of course, this is easier said than done. Obviously, this will be easier at the beginning of the game, and more difficult as the game progresses. Rivals fall into various categories. The largest category is that of Gang Member. Many illegal highway racers are part of a racing gang (think of the motorcycle gang rivalry in the Akira manga and anime). Gang Members will ALWAYS accept a player's challenge (by flashing the high beam headlights when directly tailing the Rival). Should the player defeat a Gang Member, the player will be rewarded with a meager amount of money, but certainly not much. However, defeating all the members of a given gang will collectively amount to a nice sum of money overall. Note that each Gang Member bears the emblem of the gang on the car; this emblem is also shown underneath the Rival name in a battle/race. Next above the Gang Members is the Gang Leader, who bears the emblem of the gang as well. Once all the regular Gang Members of a gang have been defeated, the Gang Leader will suddenly appear behind the player (flashing the high beam headlights in the traditional challenge signal) and the battle will shortly commence. Gang Leaders award more money than Gang Members when defeated. The next category is that of the Wanderers. These are essentially ronin, lone illegal highway racers with no gang affiliations or allegiances. Most Wanderers have specific requirements that a player must first meet before they will accept a player's challenge to battle; this can range from a minimum number of miles on the player's car to racing on a particular day number (such as every eleven days) to a particular type of car. Each Wanderer has her or his own emblem. When defeated, Wanderers pay more than Gang Leaders. Above the Wanders are the Boss Gang Members. These Rivals suddenly appear behind the player (using the appropriate challenge signal) at pre-determined times throughout the game; this generally coincides with the number of Rivals the player has defeated overall to that point in the game. Boss Gang Members bear the emblem of their gangs, also pay nicely when defeated. Finally, once all regular Boss Gang Members have been defeated, the Boss Gang Leader will suddenly appear behind the player to make a challenge. Boss Gang Leaders pay VERY handsomely when defeated, but are also often extremely tricky to defeat. Note that defeating certain Rivals in the game will unlock new levels of parts in the Parts Shop. Also, defeating certain Rivals will unlock those vehicles in the Car Shop. Finally, it is possible for the player to be challenged by several Rivals in a row. After defeating the last regular Gang Member of a gang, the Gang Leader may appear. If the Gang Leader is defeated on the first attempt, a Boss Gang Member may appear. If that Rival is defeated on the first attempt, the Boss Gang Leader may appear. Working swiftly through this barrage of Rivals will result in the player receiving a MASSIVE amount of money in little time :-) ==================================== COURSES There are three 'courses' in Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero. These are not three separate courses; rather, the second course is added onto the first, and the third course is added onto the second. The initial course is essentially a circle, with a tricky alternate route along its southern edge. This initial course is comprised primarily of twists and turns, and is almost exclusively in the tunnels along its northern edge. The main part of the course along the southern edge contains two places in each direction where bridge pillars bisect the two- lane highway, so the player must memorize the location of these two pillars and be ready to take evasive actions to avoid them - however, forcing a Rival into one of these two bridge support pillars is an excellent tactic to practically guarantee winning a battle :-) The initial course's southern alternate route runs through an area known as Yaesu. This has two sections: the lower eastern section through the tunnels, and the higher western section in the open air twisting between the skyscrapers. The tunnel section is relatively high-speed, whereas the open-air section is VERY twisty and difficult for passing, which makes it a great place to maintain a lead but a TERRIBLE place to try playing catch-up. When running clockwise on the initial course, it is possible to bypass the tunnel section and gain access to the open-air section; when running counterclockwise, it is possible to again bypass the tunnel section and drop from the open-air section back to the main course. After the player has defeated three members of the Thirteen Devils Gang, the second course will be made available. However, this is not done 'directly' in the game itself. Defeating the third of the Thirteen Devils will force the player to return to the garage; the next time the player returns to the highways, the second course will then be made available. The second course is essentially a southern addition to the initial course. Much of the second course is also twisty, but its southernmost section is primarily a high-speed straight run. After the player has defeated nine members of the Thirteen Devils Gang, the third course will be made available. Again, this is not done 'directly' in the game itself. Defeating the ninth of the Thirteen Devils will force the player to return to the garage; the next time the player returns to the highways, the third and final course will then be made available. The third and final course is essentially an eastern addition to the other courses, connecting the southwestern point of the initial course with the southwestern point of the second course. The third course, is LONG, running out toward Yokohama. The northern and western lines of the third course is primarily composed of curves, whereas the southern line of the third course is mostly straight and high-speed; the northern and southern lines alternate between tunnel sections and open-air sections, and each contains one area of toll booths which can be difficult to navigate and avoid at high speeds (especially along the southern line). Because most of the highway sections in Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero feature many corners connected by rather brief straightaways, the player should probably use medium-high or high downforce, strong acceleration and braking, the highest level of tires the player can afford, and low gear ratios (which provides faster acceleration). However, for the straight, high-speed sections, longer gear ratios (providing higher top-end speed), the lowest-possible downforce, strong acceleration, and the highest level of tires the player can afford. ==================================== BOLO Be On the LookOut for the following: Vehicles with yellow flashing lights: These vehicles generally indicate that a larger vehicle ahead (generally a semi truck) is moving slowly and/or is oversized. These vehicles trail the slower/oversized vehicles by a good distance, so switch to another lane and stay there until the slow/oversized vehicle has been safely passed. Flares: One the second course opens, there will be times when flares appear on the highway. These indicate that there could be a stationary vehicle ahead in the lane where the flares are located. Note that often, there IS a stationary vehicle ahead, but if the vehicle has already been removed, the flares may still be active for a short period of time. There are no consequences for driving over the flares, but the player should be ready to take quick evasive actions in case there IS a stationary vehicle ahead in that lane. Police: Unfortunately, the police never truly appear and chase speeders. However, once the third course opens, there are several locations where police are most likely to 'appear' (by blaring the siren and flashing the lights; the monetary speed penalties are then subtracted from that night's earnings the next time the player returns to the garage). Vehicles switching lanes: In most cases, a non-participant vehicle will switch lanes in order to pass a slower vehicle in front of it. Make note of these lane switches and be prepared to make a high-speed maneuver between the lane-switching vehicle and the slower vehicle. Painted lane 'extensions:' Some of the sharper corners on the highways have painted lane 'extensions,' where the highway barrier gives way but the extra space is painted in a diagonal stripe pattern to try to keep vehicles in the main lanes. During a battle, this can be a prime place to make a pass of either a Rival or a non participant vehicle. Also, Rivals generally do not make use of the painted lane 'extensions,' so knowing where these are located on the three courses can greatly help in setting up a pass. Highway lighting: The distant lights along the highway are rather blurry and can easily trick the player when racing along at top speed, especially in the long, straight sections of highway out west. It does help a little to look as far ahead as possible and note the upcoming corners by the positioning of the streetlamps, but the red taillights are often too blurry until the player is practically IN another vehicle's back bumper. Rival locations: Once the second course opens, there will occasionally be a rival sitting stationary at a highway on-ramp near the beginning of Yaesu pointing in a counter- clockwise position. The player should continually check the map for the stationary blue dot at this location once the second course has been unlocked. ==================================== GENERAL TIPS First, most CPU-controlled Rivals have trouble cornering. Therefore, it is generally a good idea to tune a car for quick acceleration and to have the best possible tires. This also means that a car tuned in this manner will do fairly well on the initial course, but - unless the player has a car with a MASSIVE horsepower output - very poorly on long, straight stretches of highway. To the extent possible, strategically pick the starting point for each battle, even if it means tailing a Rival for several kilometers until the player reaches a section with many corners (such as the northern tunnels of the initial course). If necessary, the player can return to garage, then re-enter the competition in or just before an area with a lot of curves. In a battle, the car in the lead dictates the direction of the battle; if the player is trailing and takes a different route than the leader at a fork in the highway, the battle ends in an instant draw. Very rarely has a CPU-controlled Rival taken a different route than I took when I was in the lead, so this can be used to the player's advantage when in the lead. Best of all, if one of the forks leads to an area of the course which the player personally prefers due to better performance AND the player is in the lead, he or she should definitely take it!!! However, if the player is trailing the Rival by such a distance that the player cannot see the Rival, the player should NOT go into Yaesu; only on extremely RARE occasions will Rivals go into Yaesu if they are in the lead in a battle. Rivals DO occasionally make mistakes: ramming other vehicles, overcorrecting, hitting toll booth barriers, etc. the player must be constantly aware, and be ready to take advantage of such situations if trailing the Rival. Especially if the player is approaching the toll booths, the player should NOT tail the Rival too closely - or try to give as wide a berth as possible - in case the Rival suddenly rams a toll booth barrier and bounces backward; the same applies for the concrete lane barriers underneath the bridges in the initial course. The player should not be afraid to use 'dirty tactics' (blocking, sideswiping an opponent into a barrier or the back of another vehicle) to win. In many cases, the Rivals will use dirty tactics to stay ahead of the player. In progressing through the game, the player will NEED to use dirty tactics to gain and/or retain the lead. Tokyo Extreme Racer Zero is very richly done in terms of the visuals. It is quite easy to get lost in the realism of the game, from the traffic to the airplanes taking off and landing overhead. However, THE PLAYER MUST NOT TAKE THE EYES OFF THE ROAD, ESPECIALLY IN A BATTLE!!!!! The western highways are generally conducive to high-speed runs, due to long straightaways, multiple and wider lanes (especially in the tunnels), and generally thinner traffic. However, at the extremely high top-end speeds which are usually achieved in this area, even a light brushing with a barrier or another vehicle can reduce the player's speed just enough for to lose the lead and/or lose all chance of catching the opponent. There ARE cops in this game, located in eight different areas of the highway circuit (once all highways are opened). Never did I actually see the police car; I only heard the sirens as I sped by a highway on-ramp (where the police were probably hiding). A player will not actually get pulled over; instead, when the player returns to garage to end the night, she or he is presented with the 'Over Speed Penalty!!' screen, which lists the infractions and fines incurred in the session, and the appropriate amount is then deducted from the total remaining money. This is so impersonal, and I was REALLY hoping to be arrested by Miyuki and Natsumi!!!!! Periodically (perhaps every 20-30 minutes), the player should save game progress (System menu), just in case the electricity goes out, little siblings squirt the console with a water gun, etc. Also, in returning to the garage, the player should look to the top of the report screen to see if new parts or new levels of parts have been unlocked (by beating specific Rivals) and, if so, seriously consider acquiring some upgrades before returning to the highways. ==================================== MY CARS These are the cars and settings I have used in the game. My first car: TYPE-CE9A (Class A, 4WD, 2714lbs, 490HP, 1997cc)* Initial Cost: $14,750 Steer: +11 Acceleration: +12 Braking: +11 Brake Balance: +7 (biased to the rear) Ride Height: -15 front AND rear (lowest possible setting) Gear Ratio: Default, except Final set to 2.78 Spring Rate: -8 front and rear Damper: +4 front AND rear Turbo Boost: 1.40 (fairly high) My second car (Class A, acquired after opening the long western sections of highway): TYPE-CP9A6M (4WD, 2797lbs, 561HP, 1997cc)* Initial Cost: $28,480 Steer: +11 Acceleration: +12 Braking: +12 Brake Balance: +8 (biased to the rear) Ride Height: -15 front AND rear (lowest possible setting) Gear Ratio: Default Spring Rate: +5 front, +6 rear Damper: -7 front AND rear Turbo Boost: 1.39 (fairly high) My third car (Class A, acquired specifically to beat Speed King): TYPE-RPT7 (MR, 2764lbs, 446HP, 3560cc)** Initial Cost: $ Steer: +7 Acceleration: +12 Braking: +14 Brake Balance: +8 (biased to the rear) Ride Height: N/A Gear Ratio: 1st : 3.71 2nd : 2.61 3rd : 1.93 4th : 1.58 5th : 1.28 6th : 0.96 Final: 3.03 Spring Rate: N/A Damper: N/A Turbo Boost: N/A My current car (Class A, the Speed King car): TYPE-R34RKK (4WD, 3230lbs, 788HP, 2876cc)* Initial Cost: $525,500 Steer: +7 Acceleration: +12 Braking: +13 Brake Balance: +7 (biased to the rear) Ride Height: -15 front AND rear (lowest possible setting) Gear Ratio: 1st : 4.96 2nd : 3.29 3rd : 2.28 4th : 1.87 5th : 1.45 6th : 1.06 Final: 2.71 Spring Rate: +10 front, +11 rear Damper: -12 front AND rear Turbo Boost: 1.31 (fairly high) * Weight, horsepower, and cc based on highest possible levels of available parts (except mufflers, where highest possible horsepower muffler was selected). ** Weight, horsepower, and cc based on the following parts: Engine Level 5; Muffler and Air Cleaner Level 6; Transmission Level 3; Clutch and Differential Level 4; and Tires, Brakes, and Wheels Level 8. Also, after several days of frustration trying to beat Speed King with a number of other cars, I was successful beating Speed King the first time I tried with this car. ==================================== ==================================== ==================================== INPUT FROM OTHERS Concerning Wanderers, I have received A LOT of e-mails from many players. The following comes from J.D. (firstname.lastname@example.org), and is edited only for formatting purposes and minor language: From: SeLsDuk@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 06:31:04 EDT Subject: ABOUT the WANDeRERS To: FEATHER7@ix.netcom.com Yeah I've been having a BIG PROB with that. I've been trying a lot of things but sometimes it'll work and sometimes it wont. Here are my suggestions: 1) Race a WANDERER with a STOCK CAR. Sometimes, they'll race you and keep on your pace. 2) Go in front of the WANDERER to see if they HIGHBEAM. If they don't sometimes it means that they don't wanna race you if you highbeam them. 3) Trial and Error. This is what me and probably anyone else who has been playing TOKYO RACER 2 (DC) or TOKYO RACER 0 (PS2). I raced a couple of KANJO-INNER WANDERERS with my PORSCHE 930 TURBO A CLASS CAR 2 951HP seeing that they dont wanna race my C CLASS 164 HP car. Its weird. I can definitely confirm J.D.'s second point, and his third point is what most players probably try by default... which makes them frustrated, and then they e-mail me!!! As for the first point concerning a stock car, how fast can the player accumulate A LOT of money for stock car and parts??? For specific information on the Wanderers, see 'Wanderer's Requirement(s) FAQ' - translated and written by HIKARU2001, Wataru, and Reiko - on GameFAQs (and probably also posted elsewhere). Also, some advice concerning the pressure-sensitive PS2 DualShock2 controller: From: 'Scott Edwards' To: FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM Subject: Your tokyo extreme racer FAQ Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 23:49:29 Because the X button on the PS2 controller is pressure sensitive, you can find yourself losing a lot of your acceleration and speed because you can't hold the button down that hard constantly. One option to fix this is to go into the settings in the garage and change the sensitivity of the accerlation. Alternatively, if you just use a PS1 controller without analog functions, you can effectively hold it down ALL THE WAY all the time. With appropriate modifications, Scott's tip may also be applicable to other games. Of course, the player may also wish to make use of the services of Chet (the slightly-insane gaming coach) from the 2001 Blockbuster Video advertising campaign, and specifically work on increasing thumb strength and endurance. Here is some information on a 'child-safety feature:' From: 'Kyle Morse' To: email@example.com Subject: TXRZ Child Safety Feature Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 00:59:34 -0400 Tokyo Extreme Racer: Zero has a child safety feature. You know that little sibling, the one that watches you play. Well I'm sure you don't want him/her to play while you're temporarily gone. You know their going to play any way so i have found that if you pause the game in Quest mode, then press SELECT,SQUARE,TRIAGLE,AND CIRCLE at the same time. This causes the game to lock and the game is unable to to be messed with thru the controller. When you come back to unlock the game press and hold SELECT, THEN PRESS SQUARE, TRIANGLE, AND CIRCLE. Remember don't let the rugrats mess up the gig man! Also, concerning how muffler choice affects horsepower and torque, Jeremy Jones has made a rather interesting observation: Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 21:41:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeremy Jones Subject: About your FAQ To: FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM When I first upgraded the car, I thought it was odd how the horsepower goes down with certain higher mufflers. But I then noticed another thing, the number of engine upgrade corresponds to the number of the muffler. For example: Say I have a level 4 engine, well, the best bet would be to go with the level 4 muffler, not only is the horsepower the highest there, but so is the torque. And if I had a level 2 engine, I'd get a level 2 muffler. If you go over the number of your engine upgrade, you will (in most cases) lose horsepower and torque. Understand? I thought that was interesting that they chose to go that way. ==================================== ==================================== ==================================== DRIVETRAINS There are four common drivetrains for cars, plus the 'RR' drivetrain: 4WD: All four wheels are drive wheels. In many forms of auto racing, 4WD vehicles are banned due to the inherent advantage of using all four wheels as drive wheels (due to the added traction advantage). FF: The engine AND the drive wheels are at the front of the car. FF vehicles are fairly easy to drive, but do not generally handle high horsepower outputs very well. This type of vehicle tends to understeer. FR: The engine is in the front of the vehicle, but the rear wheels are the drive wheels. This type of car has a great tendency for oversteering, and throttle management is VERY important when exiting corners to try to prevent the oversteer condition. NASCAR uses FR vehicles. MR: The engine is located between the axles (usually just behind the driver), and the rear wheels are the drive wheels. This type of car can be a bit tricky to drive. Typical MR cars are those used in F1, CART, and IRL. In open-wheel cars (such as those in the aforementioned racing series), there is extremely little material to absorb the shock of a front-end collision in an accident, thus providing fairly little protection for the driver (especially the driver's legs); it is truly amazing that there are not more driver injuries in open-wheel cars with MR drivetrains due to this 'non-protection' issue. RR: Both the engine and the drive wheels are in the rear of the car. These cars are fairly rare. ==================================== BRAKING The first step in driving fast is knowing when, where, and how much to slow down (braking). In some games, a brake controller can be acquired or purchased, allowing the player to customize the brake strength by axle or by adjusting the bias of the brakes toward the front or the rear of the car. The use of a brake controller will affect the braking zone, as will other factors. Specifically, the car's speed on approaching a corner, the amount of fuel in the car at a given moment, the drivetrain of the car, the weight of the car, and even the car's center of gravity can all affect the braking zone. Similarly, the driving conditions - sunny, overcast, damp, wet, icy, snowy etc. - will affect the braking zone for each corner (as well as the car's ability to attain high speeds). Except for purely arcade-style games, the braking zone will differ somewhat for each car depending upon its strengths and weaknesses. It certainly helps for the player to try a Free Run or a Time Trial (if these modes exist in a given game) to learn the circuit(s) - including the braking zones. When looking for braking zones, try to find a particular stationary object near the entry of each corner; it helps tremendously if this object is far enough away from the circuit that it will not be knocked over during a race. To begin, try using the brakes when the front of the car is parallel with the chosen stationary object. If this does not slow the car enough before corner entry or if the car slows to