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Nurburgring Nordschleife Guide - Need for Speed: Shift
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By Mike Kimball
Version 1.7, October 02, 2010
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CONTENTS
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Copyright Notice
Contact The Author
Foreword
Acknowledgements
Version Updates
NFS:S vs. GT4
The Car
Driving Options
Tuning
Personal records
Car notes
Game Equipment
G25 Pedal Mod (for use with DFP wheel)
Shoes - On or Off?
Left-Foot Braking
Driving Tips That Have Helped Me Go Faster
Nordschleife - The Green Hell Step by Step
(Includes all corner names)
Addendum 1 - mastering all corners
Addendum 2 - battling the AI
Addendum 3 - lap milestones
Addendum 4 - real-life lap records
How many corners are there?
================
COPYRIGHT NOTICE
================
Copyright 2010 Mike Kimball
Intended for private, personal, and educational usage only.
Originally written to be displayed on www.gamefaqs.com.
Please notify me if you've posted it somewhere else.
All trademarks and copyrights contained in this document are owned by
their respective trademark and copyright holders.
==================
Contact The Author
==================
I welcome email from fellow 'Ring fans anytime.  Please mention this
guide in the subject.
Send to bloodmetalcontent at yahoo dot com.
========
Foreword
========
"For a quick lap at the Nurburgring, you've probably experienced more in
seven minutes and six or seven seconds than most people have experienced
in all their lives in the way of fear, in the way of tension, in the way
of animosity towards machinery and to a racetrack."
--Jackie Stewart, 1973
First let's get the obligatory disclaimer out of the way... the info
in this guide is only applicable to Need for Speed: Shift, and may
differ from your real car at the real Nurburgring Nordschleife.
I've done one passenger lap in the Zakspeed Viper, so there are certainly
others far better suited to give advice on attacking this challenging
and dangerous circuit in person.
By the time I visited the Nurburgring in late August 2007 I had turned
600 laps in GT4 and watched many different dvds of in-car footage.
This familiarity with the track layout deepened the experience for me - the
thrill is greatly increased when corners no longer all look the same and you
know what is coming up next.  Even with quite a lot of traffic we went BTG
in 8'20 (traffic-corrected, our average speed was over 90mph, and I'm fairly
sure we were going about 175 in Kesselchen).  That Zakspeed Viper is truly
amazing - the news that they went bankrupt and closed in December 2009 was
just devastating, as was the news that the #2 Viper was involved in a big
accident and had been written off...
In 2008 I spent 9 days at the Bertil Roos road racing school, including
visits to VIR, NJ Motorsports, and Pocono North.  The great thing about
actual racing is how much sooner you sense the car reacting to your inputs -
especially moments when the weight transfer might start to get you in trouble.
When you've only driven street cars and racing simulators, driving a formula
2000 car on a real race circuit is a revelation.  As Lewis Black has joked,
"Oh, so this is what cars are *supposed* to do."
When I started playing NFS Shift, I had done over 3700 laps of Nordschleife
in GT4, and I immediately noticed certain differences (improvements) in the
game experience, particularly with elevation changes, car physics, and the
sheer texture variation of the track.  I think NFS is much closer to the
real experience in a lot of ways, particularly in the sense that the lap
times are much more realistic.  Nevertheless, I'm sure there are still
some differences in terms of grip, power, reliability, and braking, so if
you go there for real, forget about your lap time from the game and just
try to remember what you learned about the track layout.  I don't mean to be
pedantic but it's hard to overstate this point.
This guide is geared for those who seek suggestions to improve their time,
and who have, at the minimum, memorized the track.  I'm not the best or
fastest driver in the world but I do hope this guide can inspire or help you
in some way, as it also helps me continue to evolve.
================
Acknowledgements
================
I would like to acknowledge some sources which have offered specific
inspiration for this guide: justgofaster.com, Nurburgring for Dummies by
Christopher Heiser, and of course Ben Lovejoy's awesome guide (including the
corner names and the very informative translations/history).  As for other
acknowledgements, I must mention dvds from FIA Formula 1 2000-2008, Best
Motoring International vols. 9-16 and Tsuchiya’s Drift Bible, and Skip Barber's
Going Faster.  Also, much thanks for the In Car 956 dvd featuring Derek Bell
and his commentary of a lap at Nurburgring, and the Nissan GT-R dvd featuring
fantastic laps from 'ringmeister Dirk Schoysman.  And also, the book
"Winning, a Racing Driver's Guide", by George A. Anderson, with guest authors
Carroll Smith and Bertil Roos among others.
Special thanks to all who made it possible for me to visit the Nurburgring
in person at last - our bus driver Max first and foremost for setting it all
up, my former band and crew, especially our tour manager Oise for adding the
Nurburgring day to the schedule, and all at Zakspeed for an amazing
high-speed experience.
And finally, all at Bertil Roos Racing School. No amount of time in a simulator
is as valuable as even one day at a real track, and what I learned from them
has made a huge difference.
This guide is based on my original Nordschleife Speed Guide written for
Gran Turismo 4.
===============
Version Updates
===============
Version 1.7
- Updated Zonda R setup (and options), new fast time
- Other fast times, guide tweaks
- New section, NFS:S vs. GT4
Version 1.6
- Driving option tweaks again
- Car info updates
Version 1.5
- More car info
- Unending Zonda tuning tweaks... with aero!
- Driving option tweaks
- New fast times
Version 1.4
- More lap guide tweaks, new fast times
- Driving options (car-specific info added)
- Zonda R tuning (back to my prefs, sans aero)
- Game equipment - using DF GT wheel again
Version 1.3
- Changed the Zonda R tuning (default)
- Tweaks to the lap guide, new fast times
Version 1.2
- Further updates to the Zonda R tuning
- Tweaks to the lap guide, new fast times
- Added "real-life lap records" section
- Added "how many corners are there?" section
Version 1.1
- Slightly updated the Zonda R tuning (suspension)
- Added info on laps in the racing Aston Martin DBR9
- Some small corrections, and updates to the lap guide
- Added "mastering all corners" section
- Added "battling the AI" section
Version 1.0
- Adapted from my Gran Turismo 4 Guide version 2.4, April 2010
=============
NFS:S vs. GT4
=============
If you are playing Need for Speed Shift after a fair bit of familiarity
with playing Gran Turismo 4, you'll notice the handling characteristics
usually feel quite different between the two games.  The biggest
difference (I think) is that cars in GT4 tend to understeer compared to
those in NFS:S.  I sometimes find it frustrating actually, to adjust to
the way GT4 handles after NFS:S - most cars feel like a big brick even
if I tweak the diff to try to help the rear slip on corner exits.
There's also a wiggle to the cars in both games, but in GT4 it's the
fast, stiff shaking wheel at 200mph+, which feels like it's coming from
the front mostly.  In NFS it's more of a slow tail wiggle, so you
constantly feel like the rear end is moving around even with tiny
steering inputs.  This is the main area where your choice of steering
wheel really matters - for GT4 I think any wheel works although I
prefer the DFP, but in NFS:S I strongly recommend a wheel with the
newer Logitech mechanism (either the DF GT, or the G25).
Regardless, I think it is good to play both games now and then, because
it will often mean when you change back, you might get faster.  Cross-
applied knowledge between the two versions of the track can produce
some interesting results.  It is weird how subjective the game
experience can be, how much it depends on what you're used to.
=======
The Car
=======
I currently do time attacks in the Zonda R or the racing Aston Martin
DBR9.  My other fav cars include the Nissan GT-R, the Maserati MC12 GT1
loaner car, and the Lotus Elise.  The Porsche 911 GT3 RSR is also very
good and mostly fun to drive.  Some of these can benefit greatly by
setting up the car to your preference, but some are not able to be
upgraded or adjusted, so you just have to find a way to accommodate
the handling characteristics you don't prefer.  I know, wise advice
says "have no preference", but...
I noticed that running the Aston gave me more confidence to get nearer
the limit (because its downforce is much higher), but weirdly when I
switched back to the Zonda, I found that if I used similar lines as
the Aston, I could stay almost as near the limit, and instantly shaved
seconds off my previous time.  Very often to make an improvement you
simply need to try a different car for a while... you can learn a lot
that way.  Lately I've found that by rotating between my favorite
three or four cars, I'm getting quicker in all of them because they
each teach me something different about the 'Ring.  I also think it
keeps your handling perspective fresh (avoiding deterioration from
too much time in the same car) - keeps you adaptable.
Of course every setup is made up of compromises, especially at Nurburgring
where the circuit is incredibly varied so the car setup works great in some
sections but not as well in others.  The tuning you use might vary according
to your driving style as it applies to different situations on the course.
I hope my comments here help, but don't necessarily take everything
literally - what works for you might be somewhat different.  It's the
process, changes, evolution, learning... that is what a car is.
Ultimately the car setup can seem to help or hinder you depending on how you
are driving that day, so its effects should be considered less important than
the ability to adjust one's driving style.  Nurburgring Nordschleife is
probably the best example of how crucial this adaptability is to getting
around the track in one piece, let alone setting a fast time.  There is a
reason some drivers get paid more than others - it's because the driving is
still the single most important factor in going faster.
That said, here are my adjustments and times for reference...
Driving Options
---------------
This is by far the most important area to get dialed in before you start
to expect any level of performance in NFS Shift.
I was in absolute driving hell for my first week and 30 laps or so.  I kept
wondering why the cars handled so bad - steering, braking, throttle: none
of these made the car do quite what I wanted. I was constantly
struggling with a recalcitrant car that was reluctant to trace the intended
line, couldn't go near the edges of the track without squirming off
into the grass or barriers, and every time I went near the brakes all I
could hear was rubber grinding on pavement.
You can completely change the balance and handling of the car with the
driving options, especially the steering sensitivity.  If you find that
the car never steers into corners as much as you want (or too much), or
if you have a hard time controlling power slides on exits (or if the car
refuses to give any slip angle), the steering sensitivity can really help
adjust the car's rotation.  With some cars I'm always fiddling with the
amount of rotation, with others I am stuck at the max available.  I find
that the more I play NFS: Shift, the more I seem to tolerate and want
more oversteer.
Here's what feels good to me as a baseline with the DFP or DF GT wheel:
Adjust Control...
Dead Zones:
Steering      0%
Acceleration  0%
Braking       0%
Sensitivity:
Steering      90-100% *
Acceleration  100%
Braking       17%
Speed Steer   0%
* Car-specific steering sensitivity...
DBR9:   90%
Vette:  90%
Zonda: 100%
MC12:  100%
GT-R:  100%
RSR:   100%
Elise: 100% (depends on tuning; works: 95%)
FF            10
Turn Lock     360
Inv Shift     off
Camera y      normal
Driving...
Handling Model: Pro
ABS:            off
TC:             off
SC:             off
Damage Effects: full
Gears:          manual
Tuning
------
Pagoni Zonda R: This is my ongoing ever-evolving project.
The latest drama - after hitting many 6'08 laps, the consistency
was there but the laptime wasn't improving.  The big bump at the end
kept causing mind-exploding aggravation (ruined laps and DNFs).
I wanted a setup that would stabilize that better, but instead
found that driving a middle-left line was much more reliable.
I'd also been trying to find a setup that would work with
the steering sensitivity all the way up (I can't tell you how
many times I go for laps after forgetting to set that for the
car and then wondering why it feels all wrong).  I can't say I'm
ever happy with the setup on the Zonda (it always feels like it
has low grip and aero), but at least I found one that works
somewhat well and I've removed some side effects from before.
My latest tweaks are balance and aero related.  Aero below 5/5 gets
diminishing returns, while 8/8 or more can drag a bit too much (it
traps me at about the 6'10 range).  6/6 or 7/7 seems to work best.
Also, I've tweaked the brake balance and decel diff to make corner
entries feel more natural.
My Zonda tuning tweaks from defaults (some numbers are in clicks):
Brake balance: 55.50
Alignment: lock 22.0, caster 3.0, front and rear toe 0, camber 2.0, 1.8
Suspension: sways max; springs +1 +1; bump +2 +2 +2 +2; rebound +4 +4 +4 +4
Differential: 100 35 60 45
Gears: final -1, 2nd max, 3rd -1, 6th -1 (4/5: middle)
Aero: Downforce f and r 6.0
Steering sensitivity with this tuning: 100%
Change Appearance...
I notice that I do better when the car is solid black.  Not sure
if it's less distracting, or somehow just works better with my
eye technique, so to speak.  Could be that the reflections help
detect rotation or something.  But every time I leave the default
livery (especially a loud yellow), it seems to make me go slower.
Racing superstition - who, me?
Personal records
----------------
Zonda R: 6'07.394
Racing DBR9: 6'13.067
MC12 GT1: 6'16.501
Corvette (works): 6'18.527
GT-R specV: 6'41.543
911 GT3 RSR: 6'45.181
Elise (maxed, sans works): 6'53.787
- Note, I'm convinced the Vette or Viper could both reach 6'16-6'20
fully upgraded, but both are so wayward that they take a very patient
right foot.  I dial in understeer everywhere I can, yet that rear end
is still incredibly skittish.  As Jeremy Clarkson would say, "well let's
be nice and say, 'difficult'."  Sometimes it's fun and even amusing
when a car handles like a boat under full power, but the constant
countersteering and correcting, yes that can start to become boring.
Car notes
---------
(Loving sarcasm on, please don't flame me :)
Zonda R - The Drama Queen.  It's ironic that it's the fastest car in the
game (at least on the Nordschleife, that I've found so far).  With so
much power and so little grip/aero, it really has no business going so
fast and is a handful to keep on the track at its limit.  Gives you
a notion of how Bellof could have set the incredible 6'11 in qualifying
only to crash out in the race by going airborn at Pflanzgarten (not to
impugne the 956 or compare it to the Zonda).  In this thing you can set
a blistering fast lap, or have an equally blistering crash just about
anywhere on the track if your concentration wanes for a split second.
Focus, relax, think ahead, don't "push" it.
DBR9 - The Awesome Aston.  There's not much I don't like about this car.
As long as you respect its power, you can hardly go wrong.  Easy to manage
at its limit.  Loads of grip.  Definitely a joyride.  Did I mention the
word awesome?
MC12 - Enzo Jr., or The Dive Bomber.  It's very quick, and if you set up
the steering sensitivity to counteract its persistent understeer, it's a
manageable ride at its limit.  But it's still a huge, long car and any
sideways moments can use up the full track width, hook up with a kerb,
and spin you around.  Not that you will be sideways very often.  I used
to wonder how Eddie Griffin could have possibly wrecked an Enzo the way
he did - a mid-engined supercar understeering into a track barrier.
I don't wonder that anymore.
Corvette/Viper - The Sidewinder.  So this little boy answers his front
door when his priest knocks one day.  "Son, could I borrow your lawnmower
this afternoon?"  "Sure," the little boy says, "I'll take you out to the
shed where we keep it."  They walk back, and the priest pulls the mower
out to try starting it.  He pulls the cord several times, more and more
impatiently.  "It helps if you kick it," says the boy.  The priest kicks,
pulls the cord, kicks, pulls the cord; it still refuses to start. "It
also helps to swear at it," says the boy.  "But son, I have been a priest
for over 20 years, I have not used bad language for a very long time!"
"Just keep pulling that cord, father," says the boy.  "It will come back
to you."
GT-R - The Plough.  First let me say that I love this car.  That said,
I have learned to loathe some of its bizarre behavior, particularly its
aggressive turn-in followed by 4-wheel understeer.  Perhaps this is just
a side effect of being driven by all four wheels and unable to have its
power distribution adjusted.  Basically I have found that it is fastest
if you drive it like a rally car.  It will still understeer a lot, so
you have to think ahead and really nail the gas sometimes to get the
car to rotate.  And don't be late on the brakes...
RSR - The Rabbit.  In NASCAR they call it wheel hop - except on this machine
it happens at the front, which is rather annoying.  When it's not doing
that however, it is quite fun to drive.  Like the MC12 it feels like they
have overcompensated by dialing in too much understeer, but if you fix that,
it's amazing how a little instability actually seems to help divert the other
problem (the squat and dive cycle).  "Refined" is how I would describe this
ride, that is when it's not sticking its nose in the air.
Elise - The Mighty Mite.  The most fun you can have with a less powerful
car.  Permagrin.  Fun to chuck around in corners.  It doesn't have a very
high top speed (140mph maybe) but you can carry a lot of speed into
the bends - it is a sweet, maneuverable ride.  The lack of speed also
means none of the drama that happens with, oh let's say the Zonda for
example.  This is a fun car to drive when I just want to practice my
lines, enjoy the track, and not feel the stress of doing time attacks.
However, everything changes if you fully upgrade the engine...
==============
Game Equipment
==============
If you are using the PS3 controller to drive the car, I can only say best of
luck.  Any wheel you could get would probably make you faster.
My current setup:
Logitech Driving Force GT wheel
Logitech G25 pedals (modified, see below)
Sparco cockpit with a Sienna seat (reclined)
When I first got the Sparco cockpit and G25 wheel, my game improved
dramatically.  Unfortunately the G25 didn't last as long as its price tag so I
switched back to the DFP and I actually enjoy it more.  I think the Sparco
cockpit is what makes the biggest difference.  To me the wheel feels better
and more stable on the DFP, but the pedals are too light.  The pedals are
great on the G25, but they aren't originally compatible with the DFP wheel.
I also recently switched back to my old (new, mothballed) DF GT wheel.  I do
miss the strength of the feedback on the DFP, but in a game where you are
frequently countersteering, a wheel built for that is a little better to
use.  I like the arrangement of the buttons a little better also.
G25 Pedal Mod (for use with DFP/DF GT)
--------------------------------------
The following advice will almost certainly void your warranty, so read on
only if you don't mind that, and also, don't attempt this unless you are
fairly good with small electronics and are not taking chances with your
only game equipment.  I take no responsibility if your workmanship is not
successful.  This is just my notes on what I did to get mine to work.
To make the G25 pedals work with the DF wheels takes some rewiring - as you
will see below, it is backwards and reversed.  I went to Radio Shack to get
some wiring and connectors. This also requires some tools (a wire stripper,
and a Phillips screwdriver).  I also went to Home Depot for some sticky
Velcro (this is how I fasten the board so that I can get a better adjustment
on the seat, wheel, and pedal board positions).
Basically what I did is take the wiring out of one of my DFP pedal boards,
then bring it with me to buy wiring and connectors that are small enough to
adapt to it.  You'll only need to add a few inches to the length of three
of the wires due to the differing physical layout of the pedal switches.
As you probably noticed, the G25 pedal board connector also has two extra
pins, so you will need to make sure you keep and use the DFP wiring for the
G25 pedals to work with the DFP wheel (don't just bend or break off the
G25 connector pins - it still won't work).
On the wiring of the switches, you'll see that both pedals have a red and a
black wire on the left and right, plus a third middle wire which is either
white or green.  The pots face each other on the DFP but on the G25 they
are on the same side of each of the three pedals.  Either way, hold each
pedal with the pot facing you to orient yourself below.
Here are the configurations that work with the DFP/DF GT wheels:
DFP pedals original wiring (left to right, connectors on bottom):
Throttle - single black, green, single red
Brake - double black, white, double red
G25 pedals (again l-r, connectors on bottom):
Throttle - double black, white, double red
Brake - *single red*, green, *single black*
Also, judicious use of electrical tape since the wires aren't grounded like
they are on the wiring loom of the G25 - cover any protruding metal where the
wire could touch; and with cutting/stripping/crimping, make it as clean as
possible.  The smallest wiring and connectors I could find were still a bit
larger than the existing, but I found with some bending I could get a nice
snug fit.  I haven't had any problems at all in many months, though I did
decide the brake pedal is a bit too stiff, so I switched it with the clutch
pedal (and also, I put this all the way on the left, so there's an empty
space in the middle; this way I don't hit my knees on the underside of the
steering wheel clamps).  Finally, to make the Sparco cockpit accommodate the
pedals and the reclined position, I had to turn the foot panel upside down
and use a great amount of industrial strength sticky Velcro... which is nice
because it holds perfectly tight but is still adjustable.
==================
Shoes - On or Off?
==================
My suggestion is use what you are comfortable with.  At my house we are
shoeless so I got all of my quickest times wearing socks - this seems
to be ideal for the game since it compensates for the lack of feedback and
weight in the pedals.
=================
Left-Foot Braking
=================
Many drivers say this skill is indispensable in racing - and both karting and
Formula 1 pretty much require it.  Even when you are driving a car that has
a clutch, in some situations where no gear shift is needed it can be useful
to employ left-foot braking for stability as well as a quicker braking reaction
time.  I began practicing this extensively in my old car, and in the game I
use it exclusively.  Even at racing school in some corners it came in handy.
At this point it has improved my fastest time in pretty much every car, not
to mention making it easier to drive in other conditions (especially rally;
but then real rally drivers can constantly shift both feet between
brake/gas and brake/clutch, some of the coolest foot-cam stuff).
==========================================
Driving Tips That Have Helped Me Go Faster
==========================================
First, always bear in mind that as you improve in one section, it changes
your approach to the next, and so on.  All it takes is time, practice, and
gradual improvements in your knowledge of the car and the track. Very often
when you are pushing your limit and going off the track, getting frustrated,
feeling like quitting ;) you are actually just on the verge of making a huge
improvement.  So just remember it's all part of the process of training your
brain and your muscle memory.  Take a rest, come back a few hours or a day
later, and you'll be surprised how easy it suddenly gets.  It was often
the same way when I was learning the guitar.
Next, if you want to improve your lap time, it is crucial to consider the
importance of corner exits over late braking.  Obviously I brake as late
as I can, but braking later improves time in hundredths of a second, while
getting on the throttle earlier for the exit improves your time in tenths.
Remember that the reverse is also true - braking too early loses time in
just hundredths, but braking too late and then getting on the throttle late
loses time in tenths.  I think this is even more apparent in NFS Shift,
generally I find myself having to think about doing everything a lot
earlier than I was used to in GT4.
What this means is you should work backward - get the exit point right first,
then try to improve your entry, then finally polish your braking point.
The correct braking point goes hand in hand with the correct turn-in and
throttle point however - braking too early often invites turning too early,
which can lead to going off the track at the exit; while braking too
late means you waste a lot of time going past the ideal turn-in and in some
corners you may not make the turn at all.  The simplest thing I try to remember
is that the lap time is essentially the sum of throttle and braking, and the
finish line is a finite point, so whatever gets me there earlier is good,
and I always try to find ways to shorten the lap.
Essentially the ideal that we want to work toward (though we may not always
achieve it) is the Bertil Roos idea of Full Throttle, Full Brake, Full Time.
What this means is you are working toward an ideal that you know the track
and your car so well, that you only use either full throttle, or full brake,
but nothing else.  Again, this is an IDEAL - it doesn't mean we ignore our
techniques of light braking, feathering the throttle, line recovery, etc when
we get in trouble or when certain track areas require it.  There probably are
tracks where FT/FB/FT is possible, but I don't think the 'Ring is one of them.
Here, you just try to reach that ideal in sections that are smooth enough to
allow it.
Another good tip is from WRC champion Petter Solberg: "You have to try to
be very neat, no attack, because as soon as you try to push harder, you go
slower.  So just keep it neat and steady."  Professor Nakaya seems to concur,
that in many situations the driver's attempt to push harder can be useless
if it only increases the steering angle as well as the friction of the
wheels on the pavement, and thus cancels out or negates any increase the
driver desires to make. Again, aggressive driving is often useful in racing,
but for time attack you want to be as smooth as possible, and in some corners
you may find that full throttle is just a waste (especially in 2nd or 3rd),
the pavement simply won't accept the power you try to put down.
The book "Winning" had some interesting advice also - basically that you
should not feel "comfortable" while racing - you should be going at the limit
and often fighting for grip on every corner.  What I've found is on many
corners you want to go for a certain amount of slip to get the optimum exit
and full acceleration.  This will of course make it difficult to control
wheel spin as well as keeping the rear from sliding around as you try to
steer your way out.  Another way to put it, sometimes your steering may feel
sloppy or busy as you try to manage the low traction situation known as
maximum acceleration.
Undulating corners are all over the place at Nordschleife, but they are not
as friendly and predictable as a track like Suzuka, so you will need to think
about how weight transfer affects braking and throttle as your car alternates
quickly between understeer and oversteer, often in the same corner.
Don't forget the importance of eye technique (particularly when you start
to get tired while racing).  Where you look is often where you will put the
car, and also you will notice that where you look affects how fast the car
feels.  If it feels fast and dangerous, or just too busy, try looking
further ahead.  Full racing eye technique is not easy to apply in a game
of course, since you are looking at a 2-dimensional screen.
One handling detail about NFS Shift in particular is that in their efforts
to provide more "realism" they have greatly exaggerated the visuals and
feedback when it comes to bouncing and weight transfer.  To me everything
feels slower than it does in reality (I don't even have the greatest sports
car in the world).  Weight transfer is very important to feel for in this
game, since it is constantly affecting your cornering line back and forth.
I feel like there are always little ripples moving through the car.  Reminds
me of driving the Ford GT40 in GT4.  Fun, but constantly correcting.
One last thing about NFS Shift, you may notice that the default car setups
(particularly those you can't change such as the loaner or reward cars) tend
to be pretty soft, and the brake balance is always far to the front
(under, under, under).  Great for dive-bombing another car, not so great
for lap times.  Very often I have to remind myself "get off the brake or
the car won't turn in".  And of course, in some places braking is lighter
than you tend to think, if you want to avoid a nose dive then a nice frontal
bounce into the Armco.
Once you feel really dialed in after many laps of practice, you'll start to
experience feeling like it's just basic flowing lines, using smooth, steady,
timely inputs, adjusting the acceleration for the shape of each corner.
(I can hear Bruce Lee saying "Don't think!  Feeeeeeeel...")
Your mind is clear and calm because your body is just nailing each section.
I think it is some glimse into what Musashi calls "the void".  When you feel
it, it is magic.
Ok, now it's time to take a lap around the track!
==========================================
Nordschleife - The Green Hell Step by Step
==========================================
Below is the gearing for the Zonda, but it should be close for most of
the 6-speed cars.  The DBR9's gearing is shorter, so in several
corners I'm upshifting sooner or not downshifting.  Just the opposite
in the MC12 - 2nd and 3rd are very long so I use 4th less often.  I can
say I never use 1st regardless of the car - most of the slow corners
are taken in 2nd or 3rd, with medium and fast corners in 4th or 5th.
I also avoid the kerbs diligently - they are vicious to the Zonda and
can easily toss the car the wrong way in a flash of the slightest bit of
excess power.  However their edges still provide some nice visual cues.
I'm occasionally thankful they are there when the car starts going wide,
the kerb can throw in just enough oversteer to correct it.
Another thing - there's a difference between the academic "ideal" line and
where you will actually want to put the car - in some corners the
theoretical ideal line can be too bumpy to use, so you may have to drive
around these spots.  I find in NFS' version of the Nordschleife I'm often
pinching the ideal line because of bumps or crowned pavement.  Although
as I'm getting to trust the Aston more, I'm finding that its downforce
eliminates a lot of the risk of many bumps and kerbs.
The game spits you into control of the car rather awkwardly sometimes, so
on quick race you have to see if it gives you 2nd gear or 3rd. I used to
put up with 3rd gear for the first right hander but now I always try
to get it back to 2nd.  After hundreds of restarts I find the game's
bugs here a little tedious - sometimes it will freak out and fling
you into the last corner at high speed in 3rd gear... nothing you do
with the steering or pedals has any effect until you're already in the
grass.  And that "going deaf" effect after a crash is really annoying
since it carries into your restart ... you have to hit something again
on purpose to get it to go back to normal.
T13 (grandstand section)
------------------------
4th - Brake-3-2 - left - 3-4 - right bend - tap - right - left bend
Fight for 2nd for the right hander onto the short straight, climb up to 4th
heading to the right edge, and brake just before going over the start/finish
line.  The first left is bumpy and downhill, it's easy to miss the apex here.
Flat out into 4th gear and for the second right, Annoying Bump Alert (read:
slam into Armco) so tap the brake and careful on the throttle, stay close on
the apex and squeeze out of the wheel a bit on the exit.  I am still quite
astonished how much more difficult this corner is in NFS and it blows laps
all the time.  Sometimes I reach 5th before the next bit but usually
I just max revs in 4th.
Hatzenbach (Hatzen Brook)
-------------------------
Brake-4-left-3 - double right - 4th - left - 3rd - right-dab-left - 4th
In the Zonda this section is a lot of half-throttle... more than that can
be a waste and can just help you get all crossed up in the bends.  Your right
foot has a lot to do with how the car handles, particularly in this section.
This corner tends to get a pendulum effect but there is space to finish getting
down to 3rd after the left in 4th.  The double right needs some patience, get
4th for the next left, then 3rd to throttle to the right, then a dab into
the left, and careful with the exit since it is bumpy. 4th after the exit.
Hocheichen (Great Oaks)
-----------------------
Brake-3rd - right - left - flat 4th
Again, very bumpy, tends to interfere with how much throttle you use and how
early. As you approach the first right, brake early down to 3rd gear, turn in
and give it a bit of gas toward the crest, then the left, again very bumpy
and quite slippery, keep on the throttle maybe with a quick lift and let
the car track to the right edge on exit. Flat out to the next section.
Quiddelbacher Hohe (Quiddelbach Height)
---------------------------------------
Flat - over crest - right - 5th
This section is flat out and smoother than I expected - stick to the basics
and reach high 5th gear before the tricky crest at the next section.
Flugplatz (Airfield, literally "Flying Place")
----------------------------------------------
5th - lift - settle, tap brake - double right - left - left
In the Zonda or RSR this corner is a doozy.  The bumps are right on the
racing line and 50% of the time they prevent turn-in and chuck me off
into the Armco.  I usually stab the brake at the dark patch to keep the
wheels on the ground... then muted power for turn-in and pray...
Go over the left center of the crest straight, and you should have a beat to
let the car settle and a little brake tap for the double right-hander. Big
Annoying Bump Alert here too - if you don't get inside it you will fly off
to the left and hit something.  In the Aston this is pretty much flat,
almost no air, and I can keep it in 6th gear.  Sweep through as close to
the inside kerbs as possible.  It's pretty difficult to get a single arc
here, it's more of a controlled tail wiggle at high speed, and I'm
trying to maintain about 140mph+ by keeping the line as smooth as I can
and avoiding scrubbing speed with the front wheels.
Schwedenkreuz (Swedish Cross)
-----------------------------
Flat - 6th downhill left - crest - light brake 5th, careful bumpy left
Go over the crest near the middle or slightly right but go as straight as
possible.  When you see the little sign on the right, brake into 5th and
turn left but expect a big bump in the turn, so stay to the left as much
as you can and be really smooth with the throttle - there are more bumps
after the main one.  I find the cars' lateral weight transfer is what
usually screws up this corner, so keep that in mind for your steering
inputs.  Flat for a bit, then track left and get ready to brake hard
down to 3rd into the next section.
Aremberg
--------
BRAKE-4-3 - long right - flat on exit
It's important for your time to get a good exit here so concentrate on your
braking point and get a good line. This is a somewhat long right-hander so
throttle control is important.  I try to stay inside until I can see a straight
line for a good exit.  Take some kerb on the exit if you have to.
Fuchsrohre (Foxhole or "Fox's Neck")
------------------------------------
Flat to 6th for left-right-left - right - left - brake 5th - left
Drive through the bends as straight as you can, touching each kerb, until you
approach the compression that leads up the hill to the left.  You can stay
completely flat all the way to 6th gear, but the compression has some nasty
bumps at this speed if you are even slightly off line so you want to hug the
left carefully, at least half your car better be inside the seam in the
pavement. As you come up the hill, track to the right, then brake into
5th, turn early but avoid the kerb, this part is very bumpy again so I go
through the left middle.
Adenauer Forst (Adenau Forest)
------------------------------
4th - right - brake-3-left-2 - left-3rd-right - flat 4-5 - left-right-left
This section is wonderful for going off the track or spinning out.  They don't
call it "newbie's corner" for nothing.  The trick is don't get tempted to
brake too late since it is more important to use the left to set up a really
good exit from the right.  Be patient with the throttle on the left, and
careful not to spin there since it goes downhill right at the apex. Then
attack the right in 3rd.  Flat on exit, through the bends leading to the next
section.
Metzgesfeld (Metzge's Field)
----------------------------
Flat - brake-4th - left - brake-3rd - left - right - 4th
This is another easy spot to lose control, so be very careful with your line
and try to stay off the kerb on the inside left.  Mostly I'm trying not to
slide off the exit of the left, then concentrate on braking early enough
for the following left. Getting the right balance and traction makes the right
a lot easier, and also easier to carry speed down the hill.
Kallenhard (Kallen Forest)
--------------------------
Brake-3-2 - right - flat 3-4
Correction again - 3rd can be boggy, so I maxed 2nd to help with corners like
this one to get better acceleration on the exit.
Let the car track left as you come down the hill, and you want to brake fairly
early and drop back to 2nd.  Hug the inside until you can see a clear exit,
throttle, and track to the outside.  Head to the right edge and continue
flat to 4th as you approach the next tricky section of the track.
Spiegelkurve (unofficial, "Mirror Curve")
-----------------------------------------
Flat 4th - little lift - left-right - sort out messy exit - flat 4th
Expect more pendulum effect here.  The cambers shift left to right, so try not
to steer too forcefully.  To me this section is easier in NFS than it was in
GT4, but it is very bumpy which makes it very easy to blow the exit.  The left
apex and kerb has a huge bump that will throw you way off, and you don't see
the camber between the left and the right but it is there also.
"Miss-Hit-Miss" (also Drei Rechte, "Three Rights")
--------------------------------------------------
4th - light brake - right - flat 4th-right - right - 5th
In NFS Shift this section tends to understeer a lot if you're off line.
Brake early so that you get good balance into the first right.  If you get
the car to the right spot on the "hit" kerb then you can nail the throttle
flat for the exit without worrying about the rear end or going too wide on
the exit.  Throttle hard down the straight in 5th.
Wehrseifen (Resistance Valley)
------------------------------
Brake-4-3-right-2 - left - 3rd - right - exit flat 4th-5th
This spot takes patience and you want to do everything earlier than you
might think.  Try to go for the short, early line and sort out the bumps.
This is a very slow corner where much time can be lost, so it's important
to be as accurate as possible.  I've noticed the left apex is very, very
bumpy also - I've positively hopped right off into the Armco on the right
- it's really difficult to get back on the throttle early.  Again, I tend
to go through the middle instead of the "ideal" line, unless I am in a very
disciplined mood with the throttle (the shorter line is faster but takes
patience to deal with the bumps).  Accelerate smoothly through 2nd and
3rd for the left and right turn.
Breidscheid
-----------
Right bend - brake-4-3 - double left - 4th
Clear the right bend in 5th gear but start braking for the left somewhat
early - you want to be in 3rd and stick close to the inside left, try not
to go anywhere near the outside where the wall is, it's very time-costly.
The pavement is smoother here than in GT4 but grip is still weak - going
too wide makes it hard to set up the following right turn.  Get 4th on
the exit and the car will get some acceleration.  Then line the car up as
straight as you can...
Ex-Muhle (Water Mill)
---------------------
Early, light brake 3rd - minimum speed, light power - right - flat 4-5
This section is delicate - brake lightly and early since it gets bumpy,
uphill, and off camber.  Turn in somewhat early, staying tight on the apex.
Little bit of crest here so release your arc and get good throttle on the exit,
but if you go too wide it will take a while to get back on the power. Be
careful accelerating up the hill - the rear can get nervous. Continue flat
out through 5th gear into the next section.
Lauda Links
-----------
Flat 5th - left
Stay hard on the throttle and turn early, flat down the hill, track left
before the next section.
Bergwerk (Mine, literally "Mountain Work")
------------------------------------------
Brake-4-3 - right - flat 4-5
Similar to Ex-Muhle though not as delicate, this is one of the most important
corners for getting a strong exit.  This corner's odd shape and weird camber
make most attempts to brake late end in understeer followed by tracking wide
into the Armco - usually I use the little sign on the right as a reference,
braking at or just after it.  Brake consistently to 3rd, and though this is
a late apex corner, the entry is a bit earlier than you may think because of
the uphill and the camber.  Work the throttle patiently and get a good exit.
This will give you good speed up the hill into one of the longer flat-out
sections of the track.  Don't go near the outside kerb, unless you like to
spin out.
Kesselchen (Little Valley, "Little Bottom")
-------------------------------------------
Flat 5th - left-left-left-left, left, right, right-left
In most cars this is all flat, stick to the basics and try not to scrub any
speed.  It is all uphill so 6th isn't worth it in the Zonda or RSR, but
the MC12 or Aston can take 6th uphill and gain some speed.  There is a
quick right-left eventually, try to miss-hit the split kerbs on the right,
then just touch the edge of the kerb on the left. Aim for a straight line
that will put you near the kerb up close to the Armco at the right edge,
and tap the brake a bit for the next section.
Mutkurve (Courage Curve, also Angstkurve, "Fear curve")
-------------------------------------------------------
light brake 4th max revs - double left - 5th
This left hander is another spot where it is very easy to push too hard and
lose the rear end, so be careful with your line, and stay close to the kerbs
on the inside left, then ease off the wheel just as the car tracks through
to the kerb on the outside right where you think you'll end up on the grass.
I've found that if you brake a little and just max revs in 4th it carries
through better.  Then back to 5th before the next bit.
Klostertal (Convent Valley)
---------------------------
Flat 5th - left - early right - crest - relaxed exit
This is yet another place where it is easy to spin out if you turn too hard
on a bad line, so turn right early with some anticipation of where the kerb
appears, and then ease off the wheel on the exit, and the car should remain
relatively stable.  Watch out for the grass on the left.
Steilstrecke (Steep Stretch)
----------------------------
Left - BRAKE-4-3 - 2nd - double right - 3rd - exit - 4th
This tight curve is hidden by a crest that you will go over flat out, then
brake just past the next kerb on the left, dropping to 3rd, slight pause,
then 2nd to get into the right.  This is another curve with a couple of
apexes, and the entry gets a little slippery but 2nd keeps it well, then
up to 3rd passing the second apex.  There are gentle bends leading to the next
section but you can easily go straight and keep accelerating through
4th gear before dropping hard back to 2nd again.  There is a particular
shadow that protrudes from the right which I use as a reference.
Karussell
---------
Brake-3-2 - long left - 3rd - right - 4th - right
You can make or lose a lot of time here because of how slow and long it is.
Make sure you stay out of the Armco - it sticks like a magnet once you get
into it.
This tight banked corner is easiest if you keep the car inside but not all the
way to the kerb, and keep the revs steady in 2nd.  I find it really difficult
to stay in the "banked" sections in NFS, the concrete feels really weird and
kind of slippery.  Pop out of the last corner into 3rd and head up the hill.
Or, as I often do in the Zonda, avoid the banking and just try to skirt it.
Hohe Acht (High Lookout, after the hut)
---------------------------------------
Tap-4th - left - brake-3rd - left-right - 4th - Brake-3rd - right
Delicate.
The first left-hander is more tricky if you are used to GT4 - needs some
brake in 4th and it's pretty bumpy.  Then flat up the hill in 4th toward
the summit.  Brake into 3rd for the left and watch the throttle through to
the right.  All of this is rather bumpy and takes patience and a very good
line to avoid being tossed into the Armco.  Throttle to 4th for the summit
and then brake to 3rd for the right turn heading downhill again.
Hedwigshohe (Hedwig's Height)
-----------------------------
Flat 4th left - right - early brake - left
This section is important for setting up the next... it's hard to define
where one stops and the next starts but considering the name of the next
corner, I have rearranged where some turns belong.  Take the ending
left as part of two lefts (the other starts the next section) with a lot
of power.  Set it up correctly and these two can gain you a lot of time.
Stay in 4th gear if you can, but if 3rd is long enough it can be a helpful
slingshot around the two lefts before the downhill right in 4th.
Wipperman (Seesaw Man)
----------------------
left - downhill right - brake-3rd - uphill right
This spot is an easy place to lose it because of the abrupt way that it goes
downhill, and when I went to the real track we saw an accident here. The
tricky left-right gets a bit snappy and has a tendency to toss you right off
the track.  It's all about getting the right turn correct, but it drops
away right after the apex so it is fairly difficult to stay on the track.
You can make a lot of time here if you get a good line for the double
left and maybe even ride the left kerb (straight) to set up the right.
Then as you approach the other side of the Wipperman, brake a bit early
to 3rd for the uphill right.
Eschbach (Ash Brook)
--------------------
4th - early brake-3rd - double left
Come into the right hander over the hill, staying tight on the inside
and hitting 4th as you start downhill on the exit.  Brake somewhat
early to drop back to 3rd for the double left hander, which is another part
where braking too late really costs you - the camber and downhill makes the
turn-in a bit difficult and hard to stay out of the grass.  Apex 1 tends
to understeer, then Apex 2 can snap into oversteer.  I usually take some
kerb to get ready for the next bit...
Brunnchen (Little Well)
-----------------------
Brake-3rd - right - 4th - brake-3rd - right - 4th
This is another dance between 3rd and 4th gears.  The first right hander is
very easy to overcook as it is downhill, and very often you will find yourself
all the way to the left on the exit, almost into the grass.  If you can keep